Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the differences?

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"  

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

do not run 1.2 to 1.3 on r34 turbos they go bang to, trust me i know

yeah say bye bye to ceramin no matter what model R it is , it will save you money in the end

I think it will be fine to use R32 and R33 GTR turbos together. If there are any differences in compressor wheels they would be very minor. I'm still unconvinced though that there are any differences at all. The "GT-R Owners Book" I bought from Japan shows the difference between all factory turbos. From the specs listed there is NO difference. Yes the dumps are different though.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it. Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong. Other articles lately have had wrong information too. Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it.  Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong.  Other articles lately have had wrong information too.  Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Did you respray it after you imported it or sumthing?

Without making disparaging comments about import brokers, suffice to say the description of the car was missing quite a few important (and obvious) details. I don't mind sharing, so if you are interested in hearing more, beam over a PM :P

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Well here are a few things they said about the R34:

1. "R34 turbos are a spitting image of an R33 GTR N1 turbo" - WRONG

They are completely different. Different housings and different wheels.

2. "R34 GTR cams have alterted duration and lift" - WRONG

The cam duration and lift are the same for all GTR's. The difference in the R34 cams is the "lobe centre angle" (cam timing). Basically the R34 cams are like having R32/33 cams with cam gears set at 4 deg advanced intake and 4 deg retarded exhaust.

3. "R34 cams won't fit in an R32/33 head" - WRONG

They sure do. There are many people that have done it. The difference is in the connection to the crank angle sensor. The R34 CAS will not fit into R32/33 cams or vise versa.

4. "R34's have a completely recast head"

I don't think so. There may be some minor changes though. I know SK said they have different squish zones. Maybe someone who has properly compared the two can say.

5. "R34 blocks have extra ribbing like N1 blocks to avoid cracking"

My understanding is that N1 blocks are actually made from a different material to provide the extra strength. I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. It's very hard to see any differences. If only I could read japanese better, then I would know. I'd like to see where the extra ribbing is that they talk about. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different. Plus my tuner has seen them crack before. Again if someone has compared the two properly I'd like to know.

It's just annoying when rumours spread and then end up in magazines.

Gary,

Does that GT-R handbook list the stats for the R34 N1 GT-R turbo? If it does, and you don't mind, can you post up all the dimensions? Just trying to compare to other options as per this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=80624

Cheers,

Lucien.

I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different.

Only saying wat i read...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...