Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought mine because the standard one was leaking, plus it was amazingly noisy (even with recirc)... I bought a vent to atmosphere BOV and its alot quieter, and less sensitive to throttle variations too.

R32 GTSt standard BOV's suck arse.

Rice Value: Nil

Practical Value: Heaps

Red17

Strichnine,

Sounds like you got burnt by the rice-BOV in the past? I agree that some of the BOV's designed for maximum noise are a waste of money, but a BOV does serve a very useful purpose.

I had mine installed when I had my factory computer and never had a problem, but I know lots of people who have has issues. It seems strange that with similar setups that the results should be so different. Is it related to the type of BOV you buy?

See'ya:burnout:

I agree that some of the BOV's designed for maximum noise are a waste of money, but a BOV does serve a very useful purpose.

Do they? Everybody seems to say they're a waste of cash for the performance perspective - and the standard one is good enough. Do they actually give any performance edge? Some say they're not useful unless you're running a monster turbo and 300kwrw+ ?

I'd consider one if it actually did something worthwhile. I understand the principles involved and they make a bit of sense - just am curious as to how they hold in practice?

predator666,

Yes they are definately an improvement on the factory BOV, but alot of people do have problems with them causing stalling. I think the stalling is related to the AFM compensating for the air being vented to atmosphere and dumping in too much fuel, but I'm not sure on this.

As I said, I have not had any problems with mine, but if you buy a $400 BOV and it stalls your car then you would think they are a waste of money. I'm not sure what is the difference between ones that work and don't, I have a Blitz BOV and never had any issues.

See'ya:burnout:

I had the same problem with my Turbosmart Type III Supersonic.

Tighten it to death will go some way to fixing the problem but the best way is to take it apart and make sure the valve isn't gunked up with crap, oil, etc... Some Graphite type spray lubricant helps. Then put it all back toegther and tighten it right up.

What you're doing is making sure the valve (usually brass or similair), is closing before leaking all of your vacuum into the atmosphere and stalling the motor. This is why tightening the valve can help.

In regards to the "do they help" question, it is a measurable FACT that they help in MOST circumstances in regards to keeping the spool up and being less likely to leak.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Adrian

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Strichnine,

Sounds like you got burnt by the rice-BOV in the past?  

Burnt: you could say that. All i wanted was the Psssht really loud...

Then I bought my car with a blitz already on it :D I thought it was the bee's knee's till it started stalling..... bah! nearly f*cked it off altogether before i found a solution... tighten it up to the max, and use the stocker aswell. DONE.

It's not very loud now, but still audible :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do they always do it from the AFM? If so... You know what I'm already thinking I reckon...
    • The other problem is that the pan is on an exchange basis, which would be a pain to have to send original sump to Oz for the work to be done. Would ideally need to be able to pay for a locally sourced core. To that end - I'd just fabricate one outright.
    • Not at all, pure street use, touge, even drag strip and you'll be fine   There's a larger version of it too, however would be overkill for your application. If you do plan on using that sump, might as well fit a headdrain/crank case vent to help alleviate crank case pressure. Your mechanic will also notice you cannot re-use the AWD windage trays on the motor too, as it fouls with the AWD -> RWD sump. However given your usage, you'll be fine.
    • @GTSBoy yeah but the MAIN problem is that "you" guys may know that but i/my mechanic did not. I literally spend hours to find differences between Stagea and Skyline engine (even here) and found kinda "nothing" Yeah one guy mentioned that the block is larger/wider but nothing about the oil pan. Of course AWD has different one but "everybody" says...yeah just slap RWD pan... and the parts number for my N/A engine and NEO DET were the same so iam using one from my old engine. And of course being in EU/Czech many of the sites did not even show(i need VPN to be here)... @MBS206NO it is not my channel and not my video. Dont even know the guy. I just post this as a reference cuz i have the same problem. As i said you guys in AU/NZD may know this but here it is kinda a new info cuz IF someone doing this swap they already have oil pan or they make custom one.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yeah it is AWD RB25DET NEO Yeah as you mentioned the pick up is in a different place ...but i do not drift or track the car. It is and will be strictly street and just "casual" weekend cruiser. With that "custom" pan as shown in the video...could there be some problems?  For others. Iam sorry if that topic "looks" like i want to show/boost some YT channel or numbers. Iam quite the opposite.  I would rather drive my car thru sewers than get the attention that this car gets here. I do not have any YT channel nor IG/Twitter or TikTok. I just want some info from time to time cuz here...there is none :-) 
    • +2 Mine came with a bonus flat battery. 
×
×
  • Create New...