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Hey I'm looking at a Electronic Boost adjuster for VL in the very near future. I have tried to gain info from Various forums for VLs but it seems that they dare not stray from the traditional bleed value setup. So please help me.

I have been looking on the auto speed/fullboost site and have noticed theres a few additional components listed for the apexi avc-r. are these needed for it to operate correctly on my VL. See here

Will it wire up ok to a VL? Also I was looking at the Blitz SBC i-D Sequential Boost Controller. Which one these two are more popular and which one (in your opinion) will work better on my setup?

thanks

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Well,

I don't see why you can't go for an electronic type on your VL, are you running factory computer? It may have to be remapped if you gonna use a elecronic controller.

Have you thought of using a Greddy Profec B? I belive they would work very well on your VL, and probebly cost less than an Apexi.

Advan in Sydney have them on special at the moment.

I don't see why you can't go for an electronic type on your VL, are you running factory computer? It may have to be remapped if you gonna use a elecronic controller.

Any digital boost controller should do a more efficient job than a bleed valve. Bleed valves i think are used a fair bit 'cause they are cheap, easy to install, and most of all, more stealthy, seeing as any sort of device to adjust the boost is not actually roadworthy in many states.

Many people recommend the Greddy ProfecB (this is the one going in my car soon), or the AVC-R. The Blitz prolly isn't too bad either.

The advantage with the AVC-R is that it acts as a useful monitoring tool - u can graph and realtime monitor your boost levels, injector duty, speed, etc and also acts as an electronic boost guage (and if its similar to the S-AFC this is quite a useful feature) - so it may be worth the extra cost.

It should hook up to a VL - generally you have to choose a preset and a VL prolly isn't one of the presets (being aussie only of course), but if u choose RB25 and some further tuning it will probably do the trick.

You could always check out the manual from the US site :Dhttp://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentat...s_savcr_ins.pdf

It impresses me :D

Bleed is as good as a EBC.. Load of junk.

The EBC will bring boost on quicker, more stable and will not drop boost at higher revs.

It will not spike.

It also will not vary with different air temperatures as bleeds do.

They also give you the ability to change boost levels for different speeds/gears which controls wheel spin.

The Blitz SBC-iD can monitor Voltages, record runs, determine power output 1/4 times 0-100m times etc.

If you have the money get one.

If you don't, don't waste your money on a bleed get the wastegate modified to the required boost level.

Then it will hold boost and not taper off.

When I had my bleed it was set to 16-16.5psi it was tapering off to around 12.5psi & made ~150rwkw with just under 25deg timing and cold weather.

I got the EBC set boost to 15psi and made 164rwkw with 17degree timing.

If the weather is a 40degree day and you need to clean up that VX V8 Commodore next to you drop the boost a 1-1.5psi and off you go. I wouldn't really want to pop the bonnet at the lights. :D

My SBC-iD was 2nd hand in the box with everything still in there.

No hoses cut etc but the box was open. It was $700.

I still get a small boost drop from 16psi to 15psi higher in the rev's when the EBC is in manual mode that really brings boost on hard. In Manual mode it uses a ratio of max boost.

Hence the turbo is running out of breath.

When in auto mode it will hold boost flat all the way through the rev range.

Have a look at www.greddy.com for info and manuals on the Profec boost controllers. The decision really rests in terms of the price you want to spend - sometimes some of the more advanced EBC's are probably overkill without other mods.

Predator.

That Profec B isn't much cheaper than the SBC-iD.

That www site is in California. So roughly 420 - $840

The Profec B for me probably wouldn't suit at the moment as it works from a ratio as does my Blitz in Manual mode which looses 1-1.5psi up top.

When the Blitz SBC-iD is in Auto mode, you dial in 15psi then it learns the boost curve and prevents the turbo from loosing boost by stopping air getting to the wastegate actuator.

You only get this problem of loosing boost when you are running a small turbo.

hey tlai909... read the manual for the AVC-R I posted above :D

I don't have one myself, but thru flicking thru parts of it for interest, you have to rig up a separate switch if you want the scramble boost - its not part of the standard install.

Scramble boost is just an overboost.

Its the same as the overtake button on the Turbo Indy Cars I think. I think its the indy cars or is it the F1's.. hrmm I don't the F1's are turbo though.

When my ebc is in Auto mode I use scramble for 2-3 seconds with the scramble channel set to around 16psi.

Auto mode doesn't bring boost on as hard, so i use scramble to make it come on hard, then by the time boost starts dropping due to the channel that scramble uses is manual mode, the auto mode has taken over and is now holding boost at 7000rpm.

I think the AVC-R EBC is a better boost controller, but it apparently is hard to setup and use.

  • 4 weeks later...

there is also an HKS wastegate acutator that was featured in hot 4's a while ago. its like $199 and on a line it will bump stock boost to 12psi or 10psi or something. anyways simple to fit but it basically sets a new baseline for the boost so any mods from there will be even bigger.

thats all i can remember i think BD4's are the distributors for them

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