Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at the turbo's that came on my R32 RB26DETT. I want to replace them with steel turbine wheels. I was looking at them and the turbo's are in gear shape (no shaft play at all) they look really clean. I first tried a magnet to the wheels and it didn't stick. Not sure if that's a good test or not.

I then looked at an RB25 turbo I have laying in my shop and they wheel on that one looks white where as the turbine wheels on the RB26 look dark. Also on the back of the exhaust side of the head there is a stamp on the head that says N6

Also it has a nismo timing belt.

You will find that a magnet will NOT stick on any of them , ceramic or the so called steel . The reason is the so called steel are a mixure of alloys that a magnet will not stick , just like stainless steel wont stick to a magnet .

You will find that a magnet will NOT stick on any of them , ceramic or the so called steel . The reason is the so called steel are a mixure of alloys that a magnet will not stick , just like stainless steel wont stick to a magnet .

Yes thats true.. but the shaft will work with the magnet with a steel turbo.

On a ceramic turbo the shaft is also ceramic so will not stick to the magnet. As you will see when a Ceramic turbo blows up.. it breaks at the shaft.

I was doing this just the other night to find a turbo that had been changed to steel in a pile of turbos at home :thumbsup:

Flick them with your finger.

The Ceramic ones dont ring at all when you flick them.

Thats what I was thinking. If I tap on the RB26 turbos they make a slight tinging sound and the rb25 turbo doesn't make any kinda sound other then the tap from me hitting it. I also tried an Ohm meter thinking I would see some kinda reading on the one turbine and not the other but they booth seem to be the same.

Also were can I find a pic of a oil drive that is too short compaird to a proper one? I need to check that out before I decied if I want to swap the RB25 with the RB26.

Yes thats true.. but the shaft will work with the magnet with a steel turbo.

On a ceramic turbo the shaft is also ceramic so will not stick to the magnet. As you will see when a Ceramic turbo blows up.. it breaks at the shaft.

I was doing this just the other night to find a turbo that had been changed to steel in a pile of turbos at home :P

The shaft is steel and a magnet will stick to it , on the exhaust side however it won't stick on either the N1 so called steel whell turbos or on the stock ceramic turbos . I have both of them in my garage both of a 33 gtr .

The shaft is steel and a magnet will stick to it , on the exhaust side however it won't stick on either the N1 so called steel whell turbos or on the stock ceramic turbos . I have both of them in my garage both of a 33 gtr .

Yeah your right just tried it on some aftermarket GTR turbos that are steel.. magnet does not stick.. must have a lead mix or something..

I did notice though.. with a steel wheel they side cut the nut.. with a ceramic turbo they don't :P

It does look like you have steel wheels judging by the nut. However, you still have the 0.48 A/R exhaust housings so they aren't N1's.

The "steel wheel" material is "Inconel" which is a nickel alloy and is non magnetic.

Here is a pic comparing the ceramic wheel to the N1 steel wheel. The ceramic is on the left. You can see the difference in the connection to the shaft.

Note that they are from R34 turbos so have only 9 blades intstead of 11.

Gary

It does look like you have steel wheels judging by the nut.  However, you still have the 0.48 A/R exhaust housings so they aren't N1's.

The "steel wheel" material is "Inconel" which is a nickel alloy and is non magnetic.

I think only the later model turbo's (S15 T28) use Inconel?

The earlier steel type just have another non-ferrous mix or similar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...