Jump to content
SAU Community

HKS GT-RS turbo on RB25DET?

4DOOR

By 4DOOR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

4DOOR Apprentice

4DOOR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I am currently looking at upgrading my turbo to a HKS GT-RS or GT2530 KAI and I would like some advice on the upgrade. I own a manual R33 Skyline sedan and basically I am after an internal gated turbo as I want the car to be perfectly streetable and insurable but I want it to be fast at the same time. Other things I will upgrade with the turbo are AFM, ECU (Power FC), clutch, injectors, fuel pump etc. The car already has a cat-back exhaust and HKS FMIC so hopefully I don't need to replace those things. I would like to know which turbo would best be suited to my application and the advantages and disadvantages of each. Any other information is greatly appreciated and please forgive my ignorance on this subject :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81088-hks-gt-rs-turbo-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

should be plently of info in the rb25 dyno upgrade thread, should be stickied at the top or in the forced induction reference thread. change the stock dump as it will be a restriction. the gt-rs will flow more and should get you near 260/270rwkw based on some of the graphs from the rb25 dyno upgrade thread. the 2530 kai havent seen any graphs or runs from anyone running these yet, probably silighty more than 2530 but less than 2535 at a guess?

check out the rb25 dyno upgrade thread. the mods youve listed should do you fine. maybe consider a set of cams, should do wonders when you have a bigger a/r turbo

SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
Posted

Check the HKS website for details

HKS achieved 290kw and 465Nm at the engine with GT-RS on a RB25 stagea

,268kw and 450Nm with GT2530-KAI in the same set up.

Both made peak power at about 6500 rpm and peak torque at 5000 rpm.

As the GT-RS kit only costs two or three hundred dollars more, this may be the best way too go.

More power with a slight loss of response but will save you from wondering "what if?" which could happen if you went with the smaller turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...