Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before anyone laughs no i didn't go washing my engine with a hose or anything ;)

I was driving home last night from my gf's and took the back streets, it was raining very heavily and the streets pretty much flash flooded.

i drove through a couple of large puddles and about halfway home my car started running rough (sounds more like WRX than usual). when i got home i popped the hood and checked out the engine bay - i had a small puddle under my pod filter but not touching and my radiator was wet but apart from that i couldn't find any other signs of water in there.

i know if you get water in your plugs or coil packs your car will run rough but going by the location of the water i don't see how they could get wet.

any thoughts on what else could make it run rough like this and if i should just let it dry out through driving etc or take it to a mechanic and get them to check everything out?

its an RB25DE R33.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81252-water-in-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

I had that problem awhile back and it worried me 'cos it was so close to the pod filter.

Beat me for ages on where this dam water came from every time it rained (even it was a sprinkle) anyway along the engine neat the right hand front quarter panel there are a few holes (just above the pod filter where the bonnet close on top) I siliconed those holes and no water got in any more.

Does that make sense?

could it be possible ur intake sucked some water in?

possible yes ;) but i bloody well hope not, it's an Apexi type and i don't think it would have sucked much in there but unsure.

if it has then thats really bad right?

i was doing about 80 at the time on a highway and the lights were out and one whole lane was flooded and it sprayed up and over the car. its happened before but never affected my engine.

might have a bash at water proofing the engine bay too, thanks |PRESA|

might have to check the coils etc when i get home tonight.

cheers guys.. yesterday was just a bad day all up.

checked my engine bay at lunch, was all dry.

started it up and it idled rough again, let it sit for a few minutes and it returned to normal, drove it like that for about 5-10 mins and then it started running rough again.

am thinking that the air pod may be wet and sucking in moist air.

thanks..

you'll need a 16mm deep socket for the plugs, 8mm socket for the coils and the clamps on the cooler piping, pliers for the clamp the oil thing ontop of the front of the rocker cover, and a hexagon thing for the little screws on the rocker cover.

Joe

thanks..

you'll need a 16mm deep socket for the plugs, 8mm socket for the coils and the clamps on the cooler piping, pliers for the clamp the oil thing ontop of the front of the rocker cover, and a hexagon thing for the little screws on the rocker cover.

Joe

thanks for the info. much appreciated.

if u sucked up water in ur air intake it will either seize ur engine, or if there wasnt much it will eventually dry.

the wrx sound is being caused by wet spark plugs.. thats from experience.. i was running on 4cyl :|

Joe

ok.. .

i took the coils and plugs out today, also removed the intake etc - no water whatsoever anywhere that i could see.

however i did notice that spark plug number 5 seemed to have some white powder (like you get on battery terminals) on the end that connects to the coil so i thought i'd just clean that of with a bit of steel wool and it should be ok.

cleaned it up and then checked my coils, found that coil number five's spring or coil is no more! it has somehow corroded to nothing, so i guess its been running on 5 cylinders the past couple of days.

fingers crossed oonce i replace it all should be well again.

i called Nissan and was quoted $275 for a single replacement coil!?

don't suppose anyone has upgraded to splitfires and has any old coils in working order lying around? for an RB25DE

one final thing, while i was pulling all the pipes off that are in the way of the rocker cover i think i have disconnected one accidently and do not know where it goes to.

next to the radiator on the right is a small cylinder with 3 pipes coming out of the top, one feeds back into itself halfway down, another runs across the engine and into the intake plenum, the one i am unsure about is attached to the previous pipe and is marked 'purge' at the cylinder. it has a clip on the end so i assume it connects to something else and doesn't just 'purge' into the engine bay?

thanks to all again for the advice.

ben

just fix your coil... buy a new spring for it, and get a little drill set with a small sander attachment and sand away all the built-up shit on the inside of where the spring goes in the coil. shouldnt cost you much at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...