Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before anyone laughs no i didn't go washing my engine with a hose or anything ;)

I was driving home last night from my gf's and took the back streets, it was raining very heavily and the streets pretty much flash flooded.

i drove through a couple of large puddles and about halfway home my car started running rough (sounds more like WRX than usual). when i got home i popped the hood and checked out the engine bay - i had a small puddle under my pod filter but not touching and my radiator was wet but apart from that i couldn't find any other signs of water in there.

i know if you get water in your plugs or coil packs your car will run rough but going by the location of the water i don't see how they could get wet.

any thoughts on what else could make it run rough like this and if i should just let it dry out through driving etc or take it to a mechanic and get them to check everything out?

its an RB25DE R33.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81252-water-in-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

I had that problem awhile back and it worried me 'cos it was so close to the pod filter.

Beat me for ages on where this dam water came from every time it rained (even it was a sprinkle) anyway along the engine neat the right hand front quarter panel there are a few holes (just above the pod filter where the bonnet close on top) I siliconed those holes and no water got in any more.

Does that make sense?

could it be possible ur intake sucked some water in?

possible yes ;) but i bloody well hope not, it's an Apexi type and i don't think it would have sucked much in there but unsure.

if it has then thats really bad right?

i was doing about 80 at the time on a highway and the lights were out and one whole lane was flooded and it sprayed up and over the car. its happened before but never affected my engine.

might have a bash at water proofing the engine bay too, thanks |PRESA|

might have to check the coils etc when i get home tonight.

cheers guys.. yesterday was just a bad day all up.

checked my engine bay at lunch, was all dry.

started it up and it idled rough again, let it sit for a few minutes and it returned to normal, drove it like that for about 5-10 mins and then it started running rough again.

am thinking that the air pod may be wet and sucking in moist air.

thanks..

you'll need a 16mm deep socket for the plugs, 8mm socket for the coils and the clamps on the cooler piping, pliers for the clamp the oil thing ontop of the front of the rocker cover, and a hexagon thing for the little screws on the rocker cover.

Joe

thanks..

you'll need a 16mm deep socket for the plugs, 8mm socket for the coils and the clamps on the cooler piping, pliers for the clamp the oil thing ontop of the front of the rocker cover, and a hexagon thing for the little screws on the rocker cover.

Joe

thanks for the info. much appreciated.

if u sucked up water in ur air intake it will either seize ur engine, or if there wasnt much it will eventually dry.

the wrx sound is being caused by wet spark plugs.. thats from experience.. i was running on 4cyl :|

Joe

ok.. .

i took the coils and plugs out today, also removed the intake etc - no water whatsoever anywhere that i could see.

however i did notice that spark plug number 5 seemed to have some white powder (like you get on battery terminals) on the end that connects to the coil so i thought i'd just clean that of with a bit of steel wool and it should be ok.

cleaned it up and then checked my coils, found that coil number five's spring or coil is no more! it has somehow corroded to nothing, so i guess its been running on 5 cylinders the past couple of days.

fingers crossed oonce i replace it all should be well again.

i called Nissan and was quoted $275 for a single replacement coil!?

don't suppose anyone has upgraded to splitfires and has any old coils in working order lying around? for an RB25DE

one final thing, while i was pulling all the pipes off that are in the way of the rocker cover i think i have disconnected one accidently and do not know where it goes to.

next to the radiator on the right is a small cylinder with 3 pipes coming out of the top, one feeds back into itself halfway down, another runs across the engine and into the intake plenum, the one i am unsure about is attached to the previous pipe and is marked 'purge' at the cylinder. it has a clip on the end so i assume it connects to something else and doesn't just 'purge' into the engine bay?

thanks to all again for the advice.

ben

just fix your coil... buy a new spring for it, and get a little drill set with a small sander attachment and sand away all the built-up shit on the inside of where the spring goes in the coil. shouldnt cost you much at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...