Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright, well, as the tittle says they dont work (none of them, not hazards either)

the dash lights dont light up (the little arrows), the outside ones dont light up and there is no clicking noise.

nor do the hazards. I have checked ALL bonnet and cabin fuses(behind coin thing)

Also, the stalk doesnt make the "click" noise when only pushed 1/2 way, but the hazards thing does.

EVERYTHING else works fine, its just this dammit (worst possible thing to go as well!! I am making signs out the windows like old school 1900 mercs and stuff!!)

Does anyone know if the stalk is the same as an R33? Rough price or anything? What would/could have broken, anyone know? Is there any other control unit or something for the car?

Check out this website it tells you about it and has some solutions as to problems with turn signal circuits its old but it will give you an idea. http://www.tbirdranch.com/sequencer.html

If it is your flasher cam you can get them from autobarn i think from about $28 - $38.

im pretty sure u will need one to fit your skyline. Last time i rang Autobarn they only had R31 flasher cams im not sure if they would the other models i would think they would but you will need to ask someone else about that.

you haven't done anything with the hazard light button have you? unplugged it? I think if this is unplugged or dodgy connection the indicators don't function. am I right or did I just fart out my mouth again? Just throwing that out there as it is what I have heard.

no you're right. if the hazard light switch is disconnected the indiators won't work, and if the dimmer switch isn't connected the dash lights won't work. that's what happened in my old skyline when the center console was removed due to stereo stolen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...