Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a great idea but these are more for longevity rather than response. The bearings add weight to the rotating parts. A good plain bearing should have no contact as it floats in the viscous oil pulled around the journal. It will not last as long though, but well cared for will give a good life.

Interesting.

So a plain bearing turbo would be more responsive than a ball bearing turbo of the exact same size?

I'm curious to know as I have the opportunity to buy a brand new steel wheel'd plain bearing turbo or get a GCG hiflow. The new plain bearing is significantly cheaper though.

I can't work out something ....

is it:

Turbos which keep spinning

OR

Turbos that keep spinning

I guess it depends on whether your car is a twin turbo or a single turbo

:cheers:

Well the bearing will add extra mass that resists acceleration, either positive or negative. This in in the form of the rollers/balls (depending on construction) and the inner race over the shaft. I have seen needle rollers in a different low speed application that run on the shaft itself.

Plain bearing application is well advanced, and the shaft basically runs on hydrodynamic oil pressure without contacting metal. The bearing metal is there as a soft surface for when the parts touch, which it will eventually from time to time as the bearing ages.

It's a choice of longevity, but plains last years and many miles when well cared for.

Cubes , SB8006A CHRA ? . I dug through all the good and not so good GT30 CHRA no's eg 700177-10,11,12,13,14,15,18 and the best 700382-12 . What does that number you gave show or what listing is it from . I've been trying to remember the name of the turbo dealer in north QLD as his site used to have some early Garrett parts lists .

Cheers A

Sorry that last one (GT30R) should have read CHRA no 700177-7 , for turbo assembly no 700382-12 . There are at least 14 GT30 turbine based cartridges I know of and have the part numbers for 11 0f them . Compressors range from GT35 to GT37 to T04S to GT40 .

Cheers A .

Sorry.. I grabbed that number from Ray Hall. His listings appear to be different to that of Garrett them selves. ?!? :wave:

The real part number for the chra is 700177-0014 according to Ray Hall.

I don't understand to be honest as Garrett don't list a GT30R that runs a 64trim comp wheel?!?

Comp: 64trim GT40 comp wheel 2.41(61.21mm)/3.22(81.78mm).

Turbine: 84trim 2.16(54.86mm)/2.36(59.94mm).

I really need to do a bit of reading to understand the trim etc..

One good argument i've seen regarding response, is that the bearing design doesn't matter much, but the blade design does.

IMO its incorrect to attribute the better response of modern turbos solely to the use of ball bearings, because the blade designs are years apart in terms of development.

Well the bearing will add extra mass that resists acceleration, either positive or negative. This in in the form of the rollers/balls (depending on construction) and the inner race over the shaft. I have seen needle rollers in a different low speed application that run on the shaft itself.

Plain bearing application is well advanced, and the shaft basically runs on hydrodynamic oil pressure without contacting metal. The bearing metal is there as a soft surface for when the parts touch, which it will eventually from time to time as the bearing ages.

It's a choice of longevity, but plains last years and many miles when well cared for.

Cheers :D thanks for that GTRgeoff. You may have just saved me $1000 :wave:

Cubes the 700177-14 cartridge should have a 56 trim GT40 compressor on it . Most people call them a GT3040R . HKS did a similar thing but with a 50 trim GT40 compressor wheel .

Turbo bearing systems . The annular contact ball bearings have very little contact area with the inner and outer races . The reason they have small oil restrictors is that high speed ball race bearings suffer drag losses if too much oil is present . Clearence on ball race bearings can be much closer than bush bearings in high speed applications meaning less "orbiting" of the shaft . This allows less clearence between the wheels and housings raising the efficiency of the compressor and energy recovery of the turbine - less slip losses .

What happens with floating bushes in turbos is a large contact area between the turbine shaft and the oil cushon . The large contact area initially gives a drag or oil shear effect that slows the acceleration of the rotating assembly from low speeds - lag . The collar and plate thrust bearing also has the large contact area drag problem . If there is a carbon compressor end seal (mechanical face seal) its more drag again .

The reason turbos with very low drag bearing systems contine to revolve when the engines shut down is because the mass of the rotating assembly has little resistance to revolving for a short time . The lubricating oil is hot and thin as well .

Cost aside I can't think of any good reason to use a bush bearing turbo if a ball bearing alternative is available .

Lastly would you believe me if I said Garretts GTBB turbos have a lower part count than the bush bearing ones ? Believe it .

That all makes sense to me so I won't dispute it except one bit.

As far as the BB part count goes, I assume each bearing cartridge is a single part, where if you said moving parts it would be different.

Well the bearing will add extra mass that resists acceleration, either positive or negative. This in in the form of the rollers/balls (depending on construction) and the inner race over the shaft. I have seen needle rollers in a different low speed application that run on the shaft itself.

Plain bearing application is well advanced, and the shaft basically runs on hydrodynamic oil pressure without contacting metal. The bearing metal is there as a soft surface for when the parts touch, which it will eventually from time to time as the bearing ages.

It's a choice of longevity, but plains last years and many miles when well cared for.

White bearing metal is very expensive to replace also when it wears out

spinning it with your hand would be alot slower than it spins when being pushed by exaust gas. Also doing it once or twice with your fingers wouldnt matter, but doing it everytime you turn your car off, can't be good for it?

yeah thats exactly what i was saying, having exhaust gasses pushing it means there is load behind the turbine wheels, but in this instance the car is off and it keeps spinning because the inertia of the rotating parts is enough to overcome the friction of the bearings. of course the friction will slowly turn the inertia into heat and transfer the energy to the oil and bearings over the period that it keeps spinning after the car is off, once that energy is expended it will stop spinning as its converted all its energy into heat.

now if there was enough energy it can be argued that it will cause damage as there is no longer a proper oil supply, but its not really its a very negligible amount of energy when the engine is off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...