Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Clint,

When I dropped in the other day Martin mentioned 216rwkw with more to come once you get the injectors sorted. Very impressive so far mate!

John started up & moved the 33 drag beast into the workshop while I was there too. It sounded bloody awesome :uh-huh: Had a look @ his new Volk TE37's + Nitto's, damn they're sticky tyres!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-121397
Share on other sites

Ok after many problems we are tuned and running sweet

At first with the 550cc injectors in there were majr prolems getting a good tune below 3500rpm, as there was a constant miss even after loots of tuning, it may have been possible to imporve this a bit but as this car is my daily driver i want something that runs basically perfectly and we didnt think this would happen with the big injectors.

So i went and got the stock ones cleaned and tested and refitted them and took it to get tuned today.

The Result, 235rwkw with stock injectors and no pressure regulator and a perfect tune all the way. So it is possible to get up to 245 with the stock injectors with a bit more fuel pressure but all along i was going to be happy with 230 so im happy now.

The turbo is still prettly laggy and basicaly useless below 4000rpm but that just means you have to rev it to 8k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-121840
Share on other sites

Joel pm me email address and i will try and scan printout when i get home.

The turbo has a 0.6 A/R comp housing with a 54mm comp wheel from memory, this was new. The exhaust housing is 0.6a/r with a 58mm wheel, the big wheel is a problem i think. But you can not expect much else with a largish plain bearing turbo on a 2l motor, this is the price you pay for being for trying to do things cheaply and not buying a HKS or new garret turbo. But it does make the power and the lag dosent matter in a streight line and i will just have to use the handling to go fast through the twisties.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-121910
Share on other sites

On the way home i took more notice of the boost, it starts building from 3-3500 and is at full boost by about 4500 and thats when the fun starts. I need new tyres now.

We will see howstrong the RB20 engine and box is now, im not afraid to rev it to 8grand and shove it in the next gear, 3rd gear is already started crunching.

PS i looked at my last dyno run on the same dyno, with exhaust, front mount air filter, fuel pump and 1 bar i made 136 running really rich, i only made a 100rwkw imporvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-121989
Share on other sites

Awesome results mate! 235rwkw in a 32 is serious grunt :uh-huh: Martin comes up with the goods yet again :)

Most stock Japanese injectors can handle quite a bit of extra f/pressure, if/when it's needed. I've heard figures of 90+psi without a drama!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-123143
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Clint32

On the way home i took more notice of the boost, it starts building from 3-3500 and is at full boost by about 4500 and thats when the fun starts.

I need new tyres now.

I only made a 100rwkw imporvement.

Your turbo has ~800-1000rpm more lag than my combo. About what I'd expect given my extra 500cc & T3/T4.

For serious traction (hills/drags etc...) I'd go get those RE540S mate. For daily use the FM901's are the go.

100rwkw gain, ahhh you'd hardly notice that the road :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-123197
Share on other sites

Originally posted by -Joel-

Hey Matt, what limited you to only 13psi or is any more out of the effiency range of the turbo?

Well nothing really! 13-14psi it about as safe as I can get :) 16psi is the limit on my stock injectors @ the current f/pressure (hit "max duty" @ 16psi 7000+rpm).

I could go & up the f/pressure "again" & then wind the boost to 15-16+psi. I'd say my turbo is good for a genuine 450-500hp(fly) @ the absolute maximum. But to be totally honest I'd rather play it a tad safe & wait until I get bigger injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8198-to4e-rb20/page/2/#findComment-123233
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...