Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi yall,

Went to get my front pads replaced and discs machined cause i knew they were at deaths door. However the mechanic (it was a Midas) had a look and rang me to tell me the rotors were too ratsh1t to machine. Now i can't really see anything too wrong with them, and another workshop had a look about 10,000 kms ago and said they could be machined. They were trying to push their new rotors on me but i told em not to worry about it, just put the pads in.

Anyway supposing the rotors have had it, i've found some front slotted project Mu rotors on nengun for cheaper than they wanted to supply the stock ones at this place.

My question is, do i have to upgrade the rears at the same time or would it be fine just to do the fronts at the moment and follow with the rears in a while?? Not sure how this would affect braking etc etc.

Its going into unigroup tommozz for 100k service so i'll get them to check the rotors then and see what they say.

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82060-replacing-rotors-on-r33/
Share on other sites

i would say its a good idea to replace all four... while your are it.

but braking is more front bias, so you MIGHT be able to get away with it

hop onto DBA and check the pdf they have for NISSAN, find out the standard width it should be for your 33 and see how much you have left for both front and rear rotors.

This should give you some indication of how much meat is left on the babies.

Eug

the rotors were too ratsh1t to machine. Now i can't really see anything too wrong with them, and another workshop had a look about 10,000 kms ago and said they could be machined. They were trying to push their new rotors on me but i told em not to worry about it, just put the pads in.

Brake rotors have a minimum thickness, they can be pefectly smooth and still be too thin. Looking at them tells you nothing, you have to measure the thickness. The minimum thickness is stamped into the outside (circumference) of the rotor.

If the front rotors are too thin then they need to be replaced and new pads used or the current pads machined. If the rear rotors are OK for thickness, then they can be machined and new pads used or the current pads machined.

If you want to save money, leave the rear alone if the pads are OK.:)

Thanks man,

Yeah i know about the thickness, i was just suss cause these guys were really trying to sell me everything. Wanted to replace rear pads as well when i know they have 80% meat left on em.

Was just worried that by putting aftermarket rotors on the front and leaving stockers on rear it'd stuff things up.

Anyone know if the Mu secret ones are ok?? They're only for street use and rarely cop a flogging. They are the SCR 8 slits ones. Or does anyone else have any recommendations??

Cheers again for all the input :matrix:

yes, you won't always see a "lip" develop on the rotors, so only way to tell is to measure the thickness. If it's under the min thickness you will need to replace.

once you get the front pads & rotors replaced, there is an amazing difference! you will love your brakes compared to what they would have previously felt like.

when my car came from japan, rwc check said to replace fronts and rear rotors.

I replaced the fronts first, *huge* difference in braking power. Then about 4 days later I did the rears (i had to wait for them to be ordered from factory). Not as much difference, you'll be sweet just replacing fronts as they are the most important.

I used RDA rotors, which are cheaper than DBA, and probably just as good. should have gone slotted, but at the time I didn't think about it, I just wanted to get the car rego'd asap.

My front & rear rotors cost $100 x 4 (I called up RDA directly, then went to brakes plus and asked them to match the price i was quoted).

pads cost $100 per set x 2

I installed them myself (they're easy to do, i think there is a tutorial in the tech section) so probably saved $100-200 or so there.

Thanks man, might give that a go. The cars in at unigroup at the moment getting a major service so i'll ask them to have a quick look. I'm a bit suspect when people start to try and sell me too much, i've been ripped off enough now.

I think i might do the install myself too, just been so busyt recently haven't had a chance to do anything.

Cheers

I'm with Merlin. I use the RDA and they work fine with me caning them at the track. Just warm up and cool down properly and they will be fine.

Get the slotted ones on front if you can, and it should only be around $560 for a full set with plain rears if needed.

Thanks man, might give that a go. The cars in at unigroup at the moment getting a major service so i'll ask them to have a quick look. I'm a bit suspect when people start to try and sell me too much, i've been ripped off enough now.

I think i might do the install myself too, just been so busyt recently haven't had a chance to do anything.

Cheers

dude,

have you been priced on the dba rotors for your skyline yet?

fyi, i have access to good prices for the DBA 4000 & 5000 series rotors.

If interested PM me.

does anyone know the minimum thickness for a standard r33 gtst rotor?

or generally how many mm till u should replace them from new?

i ask because i measured mine a while back but did not know exactly what the min thickness should be.

thanks for that. i had already seen that but i missed the minimum diameter column silly me. well i measured mine a couple of months ago at 29mm, original is 30 and minimum is 28 so i guess they should be ok for another set of pads when the time comes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...