Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I was hoping someone could explain to me the difference between one and two-piece rotors in regards to construction, durability, stopping power, use in road and/or track applications.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82126-difference-between-1-2-piece-rotors/
Share on other sites

Hi All,

I was hoping someone could explain to me the difference between one and two-piece rotors in regards to

1. construction

2. durability

3. stopping power

4. use in road

5. track applications.

Thanks

My 20 cents worth;

1. One piece rotor is all cast, then hardened. Two piece rotor has a cast disc bolted to an an alloy centre. So it is noticeably lighter and transfers less heat to the wheel bearings, wheels, CV's, uprights etc

2. The durability of the parts around the rotor (wheel bearings etc) are improved by it being two piece. If the rotor is made of the same material and is the same dimensions, then it will not, in itself, be any more durable, Except you don't have to replace the hat when the rotor wears, so in theory it should cost less to service.

3. If the rotors are the same dimensions and solid mount, there is no real difference in stopping power.

4. Probably not worth the extra cost on a road use only car, does have a bit of rice value for some though.

5. Definitely worth doing on a race only car, saves heaps on wheel bearing and CV servicing, plus the lighter unsprung weight is worthwhile having.

Note; not all two piece rotors are the same, for example there are floating and solid mount rotors. A floating rotor definitely improves the braking performance and consistency, as it eliminates/limits pad knock off in many cases.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Rice value SK? So how many extra rwkw can you say you have? How much will the guys be able to outbrake the evil commonwhores by? :wave:

Sorry, just on some particularly good painkillers at the moment.....:D

Just taking this a bit further.  Can we have a bit more elaberate explanation of the floating rotor?

The rotor is attached to the disc by bolts that allow it to move in and out (ie; float). So, when you put your foot on the brake pedal and the pads extend, the rotor is free to self centre between the pads squeezing on it.

If you have a slightly warped rotor, this lowers the amount of pad knock off as the rotor can also self centre when not braking. Since it is loosely mounted, even a slight touch on the pad will line it up ready for the next brake application.

It is very usefull in the longer distance races as we always end up with some rotor warping from the extreme heat loadings. Pit stops add to the warping tendency as the rotors cool down a fair bit, expecially in that slow crawl they make us do down pit lane now.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...