Jump to content
SAU Community

GT3071 or GT2871 on rb20

quincy777

By quincy777,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Yes, Discopotato, you are right. Later I thought my comment didn't read well.

I asked whether the GT30 housing came as an unmachined or semi-finished blank that required finishing before fitting up. If that were the case (and doesn't seem to be), then the possibility could exist.

How then, does Garrett get the 56.5mm wheel mated up to the internally gated housing that they call a GT30 that is evidently very different to the externally gated GT3076 with its 60mm wheel? I say "evidently very different" because of their vastly differing flow/efficiency maps and the obvious different method of turbine speed control.

Do they both fall within the UHP family, and where is the information about that and NSIII?

Hopefully I will get it soon...

BTW I am going to kick off a thread about interpreting turbine maps just to keep the brain ticking over.

cheers

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

The GT30 and GT28 exhaust housings are very different internally both being based around their native turbine major diameters ie 60 and 54mm . They modified or cropped the 60mm to the maximum size that would fit in an overboared GT28 housing and came up with 56.6mm . The Hub is too big and heavy for the shortened blades and the blade form is not the best in shortened form . The GT28 nozzle form was designed for GT28 turbines and so not optimised for the diametre of the hybrid . Turbine efficiency suffers and shows up as lag .

  • 4 weeks later...
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Great result quincy777, and right on target.

Couple of things I would like comment on if possible:

what sort of flange adaptor did you fabricate, and how did the turbo - suspension tower clearance work out?

what did you do for a suitable dump pipe

what is the boost threshold point (ie when does it go from vacuum to pressure)

how quickly does it build boost (once on boost)? Looking for comment about whether the power is controllable

cheers

Dale

quincy777 Community Regular

quincy777

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nice results for the 3071. When do you get full boost? Is it internally gated? Like the 3071-WG on atpturbo.com?

I get a bar of boost by 4rpm, internally gated and on standard manifold. Bought it from horsepower in a box. Lot's of fiddling and adapting with flanges, lines and crap but seems a great option..

jaik Mentor

jaik

Posted
Posted

I am planning to run one of these once I put some money aside (currently doing some serious body work!). From what Ive read around the place the GT3071R has almost the same spec front wheel/housing as the HKS GT2835ProS turbo. The main difference with the current breed of GT3071R is that theyre very common with a T25 Int Gate rear housing. Its been discussed around the place that getting the GT3071 with a 90 trim exhaust wheel and a HKS T3 .73 a/r exh housing is the way to go, as Garrett only offer a .6x and a .8x size in T3.

Housings are only USD$300 from HKS direct.

JK

  • 1 month later...
superclarkey Enthusiast

superclarkey

Posted
Posted

I've been thinking of putting a Garrett GT3071R on my RB20, do the RB20 manifold take T3 then?

Is this the turbo you lot are talking about? http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

was going to order it with 3in outlet ect.

But didn't know what you guys would surgest for A/R, i think i got the undertstanding that .82 is the one to go for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...