Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls.

I bought this turbo about three months ago in the expectation that I would high flow it at GCG.

I since discovered the wonderful VG30DET hybrid turbo mod, and i have aquired a hybrid ready to high flowing, hence, i don't need the R34 GTT turbo now.

The exhaust wheel has several small chips, but the bearing pack is good.

Really only suited to a High Flow. Comes as shown in pics (which will be posted in about 1 hour.

Price is what I paid for it which is $250. FIRM Don't ask to bargain.

Price is $250.

I can send anywhere via TNT (small additional charge) or you can pick up in Melbourne.

BASS OUT

Hey ppls.

I bought this turbo about three months ago in the expectation that I would high flow it at GCG.

I since discovered the wonderful VG30DET hybrid turbo mod, and i have aquired a hybrid ready to high flowing, hence, i don't need the R34 GTT turbo now.

The exhaust wheel has several small chips, but the bearing pack is good.

Really only suited to a High Flow.  Comes as shown in pics (which will be posted in about 1 hour.

Price is what I paid for it which is $250.  FIRM  Don't ask to bargain.

Price is $250.

I can send anywhere via TNT (small additional charge) or you can pick up in Melbourne.

BASS OUT

Anyone who is thinking about highflowing their R33 turbo should buy this one and sell your working stocker because the R34 turbo has a larger exhaust turbine housing and will give more power than an R33 one.

Here are the pics.

You can see that the exhaust wheel is chipped. Nobody can figure out why it's chipped and not completely knackered.

Anyway, it still spins fine and the is no shaft play.

post-6399-1123113697.jpg

post-6399-1123113723.jpg

post-6399-1123113742.jpg

post-6399-1123113760.jpg

Thank's but I'll have to give it a miss... I was just quoted by GCG to hi flow this unit, and at their price, I'd rather get a brand new GT-RS for not much more.

Good luck with the sale...

hey iv got an r33 rb25det and im looking to hi flow my turbo but wanted to have the vg30 exhaust housing fitted to it also (similiar to bullant47s set up). can this be done with your r34 turbo? how much more power do you get out of the r34 turbo in comparison to the r33? do i even need the vg30? or is the vg30 it still worth doing?

VG30 is super hard to find at a price that is reasonable.

The turbo will bolt straight up to an R33.

It would be handy to have the turbo to high flow while you are still running your existing turbo. Saves having your car off the road. Then you can sell your current turbo.

Exactly what I'll be doing with my hybrid.

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...