Jump to content
SAU Community

Bass Junky's R34 Afm To Turbo Ducts

Bass Junky

By Bass Junky,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls.

Well, I'm about to start manufacture of the R34 AFM to TURBO reinforcement ducts.

Construction?

Mandrel bent pieces of Stainless steel, in a raw finsih, TIG welded. No polishing will be done, but if you want to do it when you recieve your pipe, the steel is ready for it. There will be sufficient pipe at either end to give a good seal to to the air. There will also be 2 x 1 inch beads of weld on the rim of each end of the pipe to give a non slip join.

You will need to purchase your one clamps depending on what style you want.

Currently the R34 jig have been fabicated and production will begin when all payments are in.

The price will be $110 each EXCLUDING postage.

I will work out postage with one person in each state and ship the ducts as a big bunch, and you can pick them up from that person. This means it's much easier for everyone and cheaper too. Obviously if you are out the back of Burke and you need a single shipment, or would just prefer a single shipment, this can also be worked out.

NOTE

The standard duct will not be able to be returned to standard after fitting the new section of pipe, but the duct will be such that it will be virtually invisible to the untrained eye.

People in so far, tell your mates who have R34s now, as I will only do this group buy once, no matter how much people want them!

R34s

ME of course

Adzmax

Daz

Muz

Abo Bob

GTTR34

Neo_R34

CNBLOW

HKS34R

ascension

madR34

Total R34 = 11

I will require all payments before I start the project because I'll be damned if I'm going to be stuck with any if people pull out after the material is bought and so on.

Check my trader rating, I'm not going to rip you off, I'm a committee member of Vic SAU, so they trust me, and so on and so on.

Before you ask, the price is the price. No question.

Please deposit the funds as such

Account Name

Peter N Blythe

Back of Melbourne/Westpac

BSB: 733 382

ACC: 586817

Amount $110

Please put your user name into the description of the deposit.

If you deposit the money at a bank, please ensure they also do this.

If you do not want the ducts and your name is in the list, please let me know so I'm not waiting on your payment.

I would like to apologise for the delay in getting this to the final stage, but I came up against a few obstacles on the way.

Thanks

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82729-bass-junkys-r34-afm-to-turbo-ducts/
Share on other sites
Neo_R34 Enthusiast

Neo_R34

Posted
Posted
Prototype ready this week.

Hi Bass,

Any chance of a quick re-cap on what this mod will now entail, or just a link to the relevant info would be kewl....been a while since project inception and i am a little lost to where we are at and what we need to do to fit etc...thanks for your help...

Cheers,

Michael

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At about 1 bar, the duct can suck closed, witnessed by HPI and Abo Bob who just recently had one made becuase I was taking so damn long with this group buy.

The duct warms up, sucks closed and the car slows down. not good.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys.

Well, after a very long time, and much effort and much p1ss farting about and yadda yadda.

It seems that the way I want to do it simply ain't possible.

It will require hydroforming (high pressure steel shaping) and a lot of time, effort and money to do it.

The price would go up significantly, and we would be back at square one again.

I simply don't have the time to do it.

Im very sorry for all who were keen on getting one, as I was also very keen on having one for my car.

I guess I'll just have to call it. Maybe if I find some time and a different way of doing it, I will give it another go, but not until I have a piece in my hot little hands to work from.

Again, I'm very sorry. This project was meant to be a walk up start and easy, it sure looked that way on the video, but hey. Life ain't always easy, and not being any good at any welding or fabricating, I couldn't really do it myself.

BASS OUT :(

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...