Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, this has probably been through here before; but I was hoping for some opinions...

I'm getting back into 'backing up' my DVD collection, except I can't decide what blank DVDs to get. When I search for this on google or something - and get into the geek forums (no insult intended :(), there is so much info and different opinions, and soo many things I can't quite understand....

Just hoping if any had any preferences for a Sony DVD writer... looking for plus DVDs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, this has probably been through here before; but I was hoping for some opinions...

I'm getting back into 'backing up' my DVD collection, except I can't decide what blank DVDs to get.  When I search for this on google or something - and get into the geek forums (no insult intended :rolleyes:), there is so much info and different opinions, and soo many things I can't quite understand....

Just hoping if any had any preferences for a Sony DVD writer... looking for plus DVDs.

Avoid the RITEKs at any cost... ive backed up a few hundred of my DVDs with PRINCOs which are reasonable (about 12 dorra a 50pk and theyre printable) and started using RITEKs cause they were meant to be better (also printable) and found theyre 10x worse.

RITEKs are good for burning but u can never copy the DVD u just backed up onto that bloody disk again... always gets a write error... stupid gay arse disk... ive got 200 DVDs which can now never be BACKED UP again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1499225
Share on other sites

Inark:

I've been using Ritek's (G04+G05) for the past ~2yrs (well over 500 disc's) for backing up many different type of things. My housemate (BIL) has only ever used the Princo's.

Now without using any type of software utilty to test the actual DVD (errors, etc etc) the only difference i've found between the Ritek and Princo's is that my Ritek's will play in absolutely any DVD Player you put them in. The Princo's will play in most, but not all DVD Players.

I'm happy to pay a little bit extra for the better brand so the only brand/type of disc I use is Ritek G04/G05 (4x/8x).

1 brand I would never touch is Laser *shivers*

Edit: Actually since replacing my Sony DRU512a (4x) with my LiteOn SOHW-1673S I do get many errors with trying to playback or decrypt DVD's on my PC.

Edit2: I just burned the exact same .iso image file onto a Ritek G04 and a Princo. The Ritek G05 gives read errors in DVD Decrypter and the Princo reads fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1499247
Share on other sites

Princos are better than Ritek and are ok for DVD movies. Occasionally you will get a bad batch with a few duds but I'd expect that with most brands. One of the big factors is what type of dvd burner and dvd players you have. What works great in some drives works poorly in others. Not a very clear cut issue unfortunately. If you really want to ensure something is going to work 100% you are better off paying the extra for better name discs; sony etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1500648
Share on other sites

Inark:

I've been using Ritek's (G04+G05) for the past ~2yrs (well over 500 disc's) for backing up many different type of things. My housemate (BIL) has only ever used the Princo's.

Now without using any type of software utilty to test the actual DVD (errors, etc etc) the only difference i've found between the Ritek and Princo's is that my Ritek's will play in absolutely any DVD Player you put them in. The Princo's will play in most, but not all DVD Players.

I'm happy to pay a little bit extra for the better brand so the only brand/type of disc I use is Ritek G04/G05 (4x/8x).

1 brand I would never touch is Laser *shivers*

Edit: Actually since replacing my Sony DRU512a (4x) with my LiteOn SOHW-1673S I do get many errors with trying to playback or decrypt DVD's on my PC.

Edit2: I just burned the exact same .iso image file onto a Ritek G04 and a Princo. The Ritek G05 gives read errors in DVD Decrypter and the Princo reads fine.

edit2 is exacty what im talking about :P its not playing back where the issues come in its when you try and decrypt or shrink the same movie u burnt onto the ritek media... error error :D which means if something happens to that disk you cant copy it again :P I havent found away around copying from RITEKs and ive used about 10 different programs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1501244
Share on other sites

Princos are better than Ritek and are ok for DVD movies. Occasionally you will get a bad batch with a few duds but I'd expect that with most brands. One of the big factors is what type of dvd burner and dvd players you have. What works great in some drives works poorly in others. Not a very clear cut issue unfortunately. If you really want to ensure something is going to work 100% you are better off paying the extra for better name discs; sony etc.

Yeah, Sony Dual Layer (got it for cheap) DRU-710A, does +/- R/RW and + R Dual layer. Though I'm only interested in DVD+Rs at the mo...

I know about the difference between drives, I can't see why everything can't just be universal *groan*, but hey, just try our best right....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1501460
Share on other sites

it cracks me up how much DVD writers are now... its great lol

even when something new and fandangaly comes out u can get em for like 100 haha like my dual layer... got it when they were first released... only cost me 110 for the 12x.... now u can get 16x for like 50 haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1502053
Share on other sites

Its when you try and decrypt or shrink the same movie u burnt onto the ritek media... error error :unsure:
I've found it's generally the "bup" files giving me the errors. The 'bup' files are just backups of the "ifo" files. Maybe it's possible to replace the corrupt bup's with renamed ifo's (as bup's) and then re-burn. I'll try it out later on...

My BIL has been using Princo's since the day he got his DVD-RW (about a year ago). He's never once complained about them and never had issues playing Princo's that were burn't ages ago (that's the problem many people complain about with the Princo's, the dye doesn't last very long before it becomes unreadable).

I hate the brand princo, but I don't want to spend $60+ for a 50pk of Taiyo Yuden's from Melbourne :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1502256
Share on other sites

Inark I think I may have just found the problem with these DVD-R's i've been using. They weren't genuine "Ritek G04" but instead were "RiMedia - Ritek G04" which is the cheaper division of the Ritek company. I didn't realise this until I opened my 3rd 50pk of these dvd's (bought in bulk ages ago because I only had a 4x dvd burner and couldn't get any genuine Ritek G04's from my local pc shop).

Have you been using Ritek G04/05 or RiMedia's?

I just went and bought some Verbatim (MCC04) dvd+r's just to see what the quality of these were like (been recommended 'anything' verbatim by many other people). They were $25/25pk which is bloody expensive compared to what I normally pay but just wanted to see what the quality was like.

I did a 'disc quality' scan in Nero CD/DVD Speed and these are my results:

RiMedia/Ritek G04 - Rating: 35

PI Errors

Avg: 35.90

Max: 361

Total: 482321

PI Failures

Avg: 0.35

Max: 16

Total: 5068

Princo - Rating: 90

PI Errors

Avg: 16.30

Max: 106

Total: 215446

PI Failures

Avg: 0.35

Max: 4

Total: 6810

Verbatim MCC04 - Rating: 95

PI Errors

Avg: 0.96

Max: 9

Total: 6479

PI Failures

Avg: 0.01

Max: 2

Total: 96

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1503807
Share on other sites

I sell PRINCO media in our shop + some other random brands.

-R is the most popular I have found ( looking at the last 6 months of sales )

Ive been a PRINCO man for over a year now, -R form with printable white surface. have had not one fault on me in the 4x -R range and only two fault on me in the 8x -R range, however I burnt about 200 DVDs and two not working is not a problem at all! * Under 50c each anyway*

They playback in almost every dvd player I have put them into aswell.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1503824
Share on other sites

hmm i have backed up a good 1000+] dvds and i must say RITEKS's are the way to go although theyre out of business now so i use RiDATA. reason i use these is when im 'backing up' my PS2 games, Riteks are better for the PS2, the PS2's laser works overtime with princo's which will end up killin the PS2 so thats why i pay the odd $2 or $3 and get the good media.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1504254
Share on other sites

Hey Benm, can you do a disc test with just a blank DVD, or have ya gotta burn to it first?

Yeah, I've also been told Verbatim is good... more expensive, but worth it, same with some called TY?

Not working on my pc aswell, might need a different version of NERO benm what version do you have?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1504316
Share on other sites

The DVD needs to have a DVD movie on it (well I think it requires a DVD movie, haven't tried it with an app/game/mp3 etc only DVD movies).

Yeah TY (Taiyo Yuden) are considered a very high quality disc. You can get them from www.jpldisplays.com.au

Another good brand is the Ricoh's (model: ricohjpnr01 / r02).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82839-blank-dvds/#findComment-1504422
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...