Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive you have a nice phat FMIC, the trust one is nice..

(dont mind the damage..  :))

post-15551-1123581172.jpg

not bad, dont mind that one. Im also looking at the trust, but its a little different to that one. Im just not too sure about the lower lip sticking out too much and the lack of indicators on most of em. PS.. i do have a nice phat FMIC, but its getting hidden at the moment :)

post-10683-1123593603.jpgpost-10683-1123593649.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1510753
Share on other sites

second one is nice, i opted for the not-so-big lip tho.. i struggle with kerbs as it is, let alone with a lip that sticks out further.

mine also has eyelids that ingegrate into the front bar too.. but im still waiting on them.. then i can get it painted!

edit: i carnt spel, but i can lift hevy fings!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1510763
Share on other sites

yeh, i dunno if im keen on the lip too. Plus the rest of my kit is similar to the blue one (400r rear bumper and side skirts and a drift wing) but i think maybe the trust front bar is a bit too much out there, especially compared to the one i got at the moment

post-10683-1123595223.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1510783
Share on other sites

someone was selling a m sports style front bar for the r33 gtst. Ill try to find the link - looks exactly like the one on the s15 except of course moulded for the r33.

Hrmm interesting.. was the person selling it on the forums?

Also 25GTT, do you mean you got the same type of kit as my car now.. or the front bar im looking at buying?

The orange pic is from vivagarage.com , im looking at getting it from there, depending on price and shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1516744
Share on other sites

Guys

I have a couple of questions

I presume its better to have it painted before its fitted.

What would be a reasonabel price to have a body kit painted if its ready to go. Prep etc?

Is fitting a hard job. Any instructions around on how to do it correctly.?

Cost for a shop to do it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1516993
Share on other sites

Hrmm interesting.. was the person selling it on the forums?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=54

thats the m-sports i was referring too. yes, on the forums.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83226-r33-body-kits/#findComment-1517055
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...