Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as the title suggests I am selling my old beast in AS IS condition with no roadworthy, no warranty just as is.

It is a 1990 Ford Falcon EA, and it can be yours for $200 ONO!!!!

Basically it probably just needs a windscreen, a battery and some new tyres and it'd pass roadworthy but I just coldnt be bothered.

Has Alpine head unit with 6 stacker in the boot with 2x 120W 6x9 Alpine speaker

2.5 inch Extractors and full exhaust system

Rego runs out on the 14th of August.

Here are some pics:

Front on:

1.jpg

Backend:

11.jpg

Drivers side from front:

2.jpg

Drivers side from back:

12.jpg

Inside Front:

3.jpg

Pedals, including BIG FOOT Accelerator ( Thorpy say's it's fooly sic hey bro!):

4.jpg

Cluster set, including smart arse cockaroach who played peek-a-boo with the camera:

5.jpg

Mags and tyres, which are not totally bald, not on steels but still illegal:

6.jpg

Engine Bay, with no serios oil leaks, typical ford tappet cover leak though:

7.jpg

Exhaust extractors, 2.5inch goes with the 2.5 inch exhaust system, with chome tip for that ricy goodness:

8.jpg

I do not need to know how much of a crapbox this is, but it drives and probably needs little amount of work for someone who is a mechanic, I just couldn't be bothered.

Would like to get rid of it preety quickly so make an offer, all serious offers will be considered.

Contact Cyrus on 0404 084 695 (AFTER 6pm as mobile coverage at work SUCKS!)

OR [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83340-omg-whole-car-200/
Share on other sites

hey cyrus

How much of a easy fix is it, what sorta things does it need replaced just so I can get a idea of how much money it will need oh & can you put a tyre size up too please

If not to much We will be interested :P

I'm no mechanic and if you want to pay for it to be inspected then by all means do.

Only things I know are wrong with it that would affect roadworthy are:

1. Massive crack down windscreen, will need replacing

2. Battery dead, barly holds enough chagre to start, sometimes doesnt

3. Tyres are below legal tread mark, will need replacing

Other than that, the car drives fine, idles fine, the auto doesnt clunk or anything, no mystery noises when braking or turning.

Oh the aircon needs a re-gas, and the tint is stuffed on the windows.

To me it is not really worth fixing up when you can buy them in really good nic for around $2,000.

Very negotiable on the price too...... make an offer :P

This car would be perfect for a track/bush basher.

And whack this on:

5b_1_b.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-EA-AU-STAGE-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem

And apparently BAM, 400hp :)

Still for sale btw!

I'll even throw in the:

"

GET IN

SIT DOWN

SHUT UP

AND HANG ON

"

Foot mats!!!!!

FOR FREE!!

BARGAIN!

lol, i should buy a heap of shit like this so I dont drive my new skyline to work everyday, 100km round trip minimum once a day 6 days a week...sometimes twice a day...

ill have a think about it, and those mats sure make it tempting!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...