Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ill take that plastic part above the throtle body.. (the underdash plastic thingy), no cracks or hinges broken? 25$ delivered?

Also ummm $5-10 for the drivers side floor mat?

Are you in sydney?

hey dude, is that the normal r33 door moulding (that has the handle and p/window controls etc in it) or is it carbon fibre?? Looks weird from the pics. Also where are you at?

carbon fibre stick on stuff, came up pretty good came from japan like that.

im in sth east melb, and yes thats the part that all the switches sit in...i have them too

Shong- I may have a snorkel ill check for u tomorrow mate

d00dz - I'd rather sell the parts on ebay than see offer of $5 for an orig carpet come on mate i said REAL offers

Warby - already been offered $50, still taking offers

Noble: You know the rules, post a price for all parts you are selling or this thread will be closed

washer bottles and over flow bottles - $25 each

Interior lights - $20 each

Tail Lights - Offers over $175 the pair..wont seperate

(but have a silver 1 not sure what side yet but $80 for that)

Heater controller unit - $80

R33 manual turbo cluster - $150 (all working great cond)

Bumper $150

R33 LSD turbo diff - Offers $300+

Starter Motor - $150

Dash Surround - Offers $80 so far + postage if someone will beat that and pick up locally i'll be happy to do that

Strut tower bar - $60 pickup or + postage

I'e been forced to put these prices as been told by the authorities of this board guilty as charged, haha plz keep the pm's coming

HEAPS OF OTHER SMALL PARTS U MAY NEED I HAVE

Blitz, what...u mean the ....ooooooh 4 or 5 parts silver parts i had

maybe u should ask forum member "west" since he is a member of the forum pretty sure a paying member..a good friend of mine also and i did buy his car which im sure if you search the threads u will see what it looked like when I bought it.

this is why i had a few silver parts.

thank u for your kind msg

washer bottles and over flow bottles - $25 each

Interior lights - $20 each

Tail Lights - Offers over $175 the pair..wont seperate

(but have a silver 1 not sure what side yet but $80 for that)

Heater controller unit - $80

R33 manual turbo cluster - $150 (all working great cond)

Bumper $150

R33 LSD turbo diff - Offers $300+

Starter Motor - $150

Dash Surround - Offers $80 so far + postage if someone will beat that and pick up locally i'll be happy to do that

Strut tower bar - $60 pickup or + postage

I'e been forced to put these prices as been told by the authorities of this board guilty as charged, haha plz keep the pm's coming

HEAPS OF OTHER SMALL PARTS U MAY NEED I HAVE

Hey Noble_Bum,

Do u happen to have the lever mechanism in the boot that operates the small fuel door. Its connected to the lever found below the driver seat that opens the boot and the small fuel door. Kind of hard to describe but its consist of a spring and some plastic bits.

Hey Noble_Bum,

Do u happen to have the lever mechanism in the boot that operates the small fuel door. Its connected to the lever found below the driver seat that opens the boot and the small fuel door. Kind of hard to describe but its consist of a spring and some plastic bits.

yeah mate sure do was looking at it last night asking myself which poor bugger would need that part, now i found ya...pm me :)

DASH CLUSTER - SOLD :P

rest still for sale and heaps more

Have u got any series 2 parts? I need a series 2 front left fog light cover and maybe the rear parcel shelf, willing to pick up for the right price. Thanks

washer bottles and over flow bottles - $25 each

Interior lights - $20 each

Tail Lights - Offers over $175 the pair..wont seperate

(but have a silver 1 not sure what side yet but $80 for that)

Heater controller unit - $80

R33 manual turbo cluster - $150 (all working great cond)

Bumper $150

R33 LSD turbo diff - Offers $300+

Starter Motor - $150

Dash Surround - Offers $80 so far + postage if someone will beat that and pick up locally i'll be happy to do that

Strut tower bar - $60 pickup or + postage

I'e been forced to put these prices as been told by the authorities of this board guilty as charged, haha plz keep the pm's coming

HEAPS OF OTHER SMALL PARTS U MAY NEED I HAVE

Is the R33 LSD turbo diff - Offers $300+ still available is so where are you located

Gunjack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...