Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am thinking of selling my Calais Turbo and buying an R32 could be an auto Turbo i dont like the RB20DET for some reason so in about 6 months buy a R34 or R33 front cut and put the RB25DET into the R32 some people have said the hardest part is the loom.

i want to use all the R33/R34 stuff radiator,psteer pump everything and brakes and probley convert the r32 to manual using the RB25DET box.

i am also thinking the tail shaft needs to be moded somehow not sure

how hard is this conversion and what am i looking at $$$ wise.

everything will be stock for awhile until i can upgrade things.

i put this in the wrong section b4 i thinkz.

sorri guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83771-rb25det-into-r32-rb20det-or-rb25de/
Share on other sites

this is just a dumb thread. why would u waste so much time importing and changing over so many parts, when u can just buy a R32 GTS-T and sell the engine if u want and get a rb25det simple, if u buy a GTS then u got change everthing inc, ecu, loom, gearbox, engine, LSD, breaks etc etc etc... and in the end ur pretty much making a GTS into a GTS-T

this is just a dumb thread. why would u waste so much time importing and changing over so many parts, when u can just buy a R32 GTS-T and sell the engine if u want and get a rb25det simple, if u buy a GTS then u got change everthing inc, ecu, loom, gearbox, engine, LSD, breaks etc etc etc... and in the end ur pretty much making a GTS into a GTS-T

This is a dumb comment! Hybrid never mentioned anything about a GTS - infact, Hybrid specifically referred to "Turbo" and "RB20DET".

Back to the question. I've done this swap, but it was into a GTS4, so I had to get an engine from a Stagea to get the 4WD sump. That ups the ante for a start. Including the Wolf 3D, I guesstimate it cost me around $8k all up. That also included a flywheel and clutch assembly (my new engine was from an auto, but I intended to do the flywheel / clutch anyway). It would probably cost maybe $5k for just an engine swap, although I did all the labour myself.

You don't need to swap gearboxes - my gearbox is happily handling the 180 Awkw (probably 240 fly kw) being pushed through it.

If you get a RB25DET with VVT, then you will definitely need the loom from the new engine. Otherwise, simply swap all the RB20 sensors into the RB25, and plug in a RB25DET computer.

I'm with blind elk about the dumb comments, it can be a pretty cheap conversion if you are handy with a soldering iron and a socket set and well worth the effort.

I've carried out the exact swap you are contemplating (except i had a manual to start with) and retained the rb20 flywheel/clutch combo as it was already upgraded and the rb20 box to minimise cost and hassles with tail shafts. It's happy enough putting 200rwkw through it.

All up i paid under 3k which included a new exhaust manifold, braided lines and custom piping, engine, loom and ecu from an s1 r33gtst.

All work carried out myself with a little help manhandling the engine and box in and out and some welding.

hmmmm i was just going to do it to a R32 thats why i made this thred so i can read what people say cause if i knew about this i wouldnt be asking.

i was just gunna buy a front cut and replace everything into the R32 id use the R33/R34 brakes and so on so im guessing if i pay $4500 for a low Km's R33 RB25DET id just swap it into the R32 wouldnt this be str8 forward.

so i can use the R32 Loom but i was thinking of getting a Aftermarket ECU later on and just use the RB25DET ECU for the time been.

can this be done

and i heard its only 2 pins that need 2 be changed is this right.

HYBRID,

I recently installed an R33 motor and gearbox into my manual R32 and modified the R33 loom to be a 'plug and play' item. I had similar intentions in that I wanted to run around for a period on the factory computer and then upgrade. I have been running around with the factory computer for about 2 months now.

I'm currently in the process of installing a large Garrett turbo and have opted for a plug in Haltech. The car should be ready to start on the factory computer next week and early september I will install new injectors and Haltech and then tune.

In answer to your questions it is a relatively straight forward swap just a little mucking around to get the gearbox sorted (eg tailshaft mods, speedo mods etc).

On the loom side it is a little more involved as power feeds for the 32 and 33 come from different locations. Its not as simple as swapping 2 pins. I sacrificed the 32 loom to utilise power feed wires etc.

I had planned to write a guide on wiring up the 33 loom but haven't got around to it yet.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

could i just run a like a seperate loom for power and that by itself i know it might leave me with some more wires but would this work like encorporate both parts i need into 1 insted of replacing the whole lot.

do you know what i mean?

For some one like myself I would have been better off buying a GTS N/A RB25DE R32.

As my diff, gearbox and brakes will soon to be replaced with stronger and bigger items.

My motor has been replaced.

For some one who is looking at slotting an RB25 in to an R32 going a R32 GTS RB25 N/A isn't really a silly idea.

Grab the RB25DET front cut, drop the motor and gearbox in, slap the R33 GTST (same size as R32 GTR) front brakes on, buy R32 GTST rear brakes (I'm assuming all the N/A's run crappy brakes).

Grab your self a 1.5way diff or R33 GTST Diff (4.11:1).

Wiring mods have to be anyway so while you are there integrate the knock sensors in to the N/A loom.

I havn't looked in to the N/A's much so I don't know if they come as a M-Spec with the bigger brakes etc.

It all depends what you want out of the car and your plans for it.

The wiring part is easy, especially if you have wiring diagrams as I do. :D

In SA the Rb25DET in to the R32 is a fairly common swap, the only requirement is that it runs everything stock and runs the R33 brakes. :D

The other bonus of the RB25DE N/A is that you will sell just the head for more than you could sell the RB20DET long motor. :P

HYBRID,

I think I know what you mean. I used the R33 loom but pulled it apart and added new wires resulting in a plug in unit. As an example, the 33 loom uses a single power feed for the injectors and coils which is supplied through the plug inside the car as opposed to separate power feeds for the injectors and coils in the 32 which arrives via the plug in the engine bay.

As a result I separated the power feed for the coils and injectors and used the 32 engine bay plug and power feed wires thereby setting it up as per the 32 arrangement. I hooked up everything eg power steering, A/C, warning light, VCT, neutral switch etc. I also installed a relay for the Fast Idle Compensation Device (FICD) as the 32's don't have this.

You also need to extract ancillary plugs and wires from the 32 loom and add them to the 33 loom to keep non-engine mgmt parts functioning correctly (eg. fuel pump resister, water temp sensor).

If you have a multimeter and wiring diagrams and possess some skill with a soldering iron you can nut it out and set up functional loom. If it seems abit daunting I'd be happy to do it for you.

Hope this explains things a little clearer.

Cheers

well i want to get all this info 1st b4 i go and sell my calais and get a R32 i was also thinkin about geting a RB25DE NA R32 probley be easier to do a conversion to RB25DET.

  • 2 years later...

I just got my RB25DET (series 2) and I was hoping you could help me with some questions.

My Skyline is non turbo so it will be a big step with the RB25.

Now then, my first question is about the gearbox mounts, I hear they aren't the same and I will also have problems with the speedo meter. What do you know about this? Can I use the Xmember of the R33 ??

The second is about the harness, everyone that has ever swapped an engine told me that the harness is the most difficult part of the swap. Do you have the diagram of the R32 and the R33 (still can't find it for the R32) and some pointers on how this is done??

Hope to get a reply from you soon

Carlos Rudolph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...