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Has Any One Removed The Insides Of Their Diff?

Japtastic-UK
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Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

Posted
Posted

Need to know how it is done as I am in the middle of changing mine at the moment but can't get the damn thing out, I have removed everyting including the 4 bolts you see in this picture, can any one give me a clue of how to get the main unit out?

R33 GTST btw

Cheers

post-14541-1123973148.jpg

datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

Posted
Posted

If you have removed the 4 bolts then you need to pull the bearing caps out.You may need to give them a tap with a copper/plastic hammer and mark which side they came from.The centre can now be removed,sometimes these can be pull out by hand or you may have to use a long screw driver to lever it up on each side if it is tight.Remember these have shims on either side and need to go back in the same way and so do the bearings unless you replacing the bearings or the centre or adjusting the tooth mesh/backlash.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

It should pull straight out of the housing with the caps removed. Sometimes the shims can be tight and that makes things a bit more difficult, but in those cases tapping on the side of the crownwheel (ie opposite side to teeth face) with a rubber or plastic mallet will usually free it up. The parts you mention that are loose are the spacers and shims for setting up CWP relationship.

Datsqik is on the money - make sure you mark everything and keep it all in the same relationship for re-assembly. If your changing the centre and/or the CWP the shims will almost certainly need changing, but it's rare for the bearings to give trouble (mind you, if it were me and I was changing the centre and CWP for something new, I'd have a tendency to change the bearings - esp if this was for a high HP app).

I'm probably seeing things, but that's not sealant I'm seeing around the bearing bolt holes, is it ??

Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No sealant where it shouldn't be.

I'm swaping an manual diff for an auto one, found one cheap and it will be good for the drag strip becuase the ratios are different, the casing is only 1cm longer so hopefully this won't cause a problem, the prop shaft moves loads any way.

Can't shift either of the guts from either unit out though.

The new auto diff didn't come with the driveshaft flanges so I was in the process of just swapping them over but they are either different or the sir clip was bent as when one went in it got stuck and won't go fully in and now it won't come out whatever I do, so I think the only option is to take it to the local transmissions shop to see if they can shift the bugger!

What a nightmare!

  • 1 month later...
Packy Collaborator

Packy

Posted
Posted

hmmm good someone else is doing this diff opening too.

I've got a 2way Kaaz waiting to go in. I'm a step before though, i still have the half shafts in the diff, how do you remove them???? I've got the bearing caps out, just can't figure out how to get the shafts out of the centre itself??? Any help guys???

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