Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I have a 2000 R34 GTT incoming and have just started thinking about number plates for when it arrives. After looking at the pics I have of it (standard body kit) I have no idea how/if I will be able to fit coloured (as in the blue ones) NSW plates to it as they seem to be much too wide and short for the plate space provided.

I trawled through the forums here with no luck finding a similar sob story so thought would be as good a reason as any for my first post and am hoping someone else has had to solve the same problem.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83984-fitting-number-plate-to-2000-gtt/
Share on other sites

The Front Plate on the S1 simply needs some spacers as you have mentioned. The Rear Plate is a perfect fit (with no space for anything else)

I have the Black on White NSW Plates... may be different for other plate styles!

The short height of the coloured plates will leave nasty gaps above/below on the front by my guesstimates. Might just wait til I go see it when it comes in and take a template of the plate size with me. Would really like the coloured plates but if need be, the NSW 2+3 letters/numbers white on black should fit nicely.

  • 8 months later...
looks nice

mind if i ask how much u picked it up for?

the plates should fit , might need spacers but yeah ^^

the space for the plate looks the same as mine and i have the big fat ugly yellow plates

Hi guys,

My nams is Michael and I'm rather new to the site. I own a 2001, R34 Skyline GTT S2 with the same factory fitted Nismo front bumper as user: ECL's car (or the photo being shown in ECL's signature). I really like the aftermarket addition of the lower lip at the bottom of the front bumper. Does anyone know where to get them or where i can source them from? the brand of it, etc? Thanks for your help in advance!! I've fallen in love with that piece of bumper lip and i can't sleep until i get them!! :D

cheers,

Mic

post-5240-1146727617.jpgpost-5240-1146727659.jpgI dont know if this is of any help to you but this is how i did mine, its a seriesII GTR.

Made small brackets for the front plate so it sits higher that original and out a bit, this way its not in the way of the cooler . The rear i used long bolts (60 mm) and tube spacers, if you dont use covers you only need small spacers ( 10 mm ), in my case about 25 mm spacers used to accomodate the cover .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...