Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

pretty ignorant, if its 98RON, then it should be as good as the Mobil and BP stuff. I have noticed no differance in knock levels between Mobil or BP, but I tend to get less kms out of BP Ultimate

Chances are its probably comes out of the same refinery as either BP or Mobil

the SAFF on OG Road sells 100RON Racing Fuel

Im going to give it a try next time I go past a SAFF, the one I saw selling it was down near Holdens at Elizabeth

I think they take discount vouchers too.....

if your going to use the STAFF 98 ron fuel that im sure it should be ok if you got it tuned to take 98 ron fuel no matter what it comes from ie Staff/bp/mobil. But what is the point in using 100 ron fuel if you only use it once in a blue moon?

Yeah, the SAFF 98 should be no differant to the BP/Mobil fuel

100 Octane is good for track days etc where that bit of extra octane can be the differance in going home happy, or towing your car home because it had been detonating with the extra heat your car experiences at the track. It was pretty expensive though, at about $1.65 a litre I think (that was 8 months ago too)

I have used it once, and it was quite good

I think they are calling the SAFF stuff 'Boost 98' or seomthing like that

Interesting to hear people say "if it's 98 it should be just as good as the others"

Ask some questions of some people who have used optimax (not available in SA) and listen to the responses. Plenty will never use it again.

Also, I wouldn't buy fuel from a servo that didn't sell a lot of it. This high octane unleaded goes off, so if they aren't selling a lot and getting topped up frequently you might get a stale batch.

The moral of the story - always buy fuel from a busy servo.

A recent write up in a magazine found all 98ron fuels were 98, but the age of the fuel will make a difference. I think this is the big benefit with BP as they use fewer aromatics to produce 98ron, and hence it is less susceptible to the age problem.

Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

Edited by Busky2k

Yeah good mate. Yourself?

Oh yeah when I was surfing the SAFF website, seems this 98ROn stuff is 10% ethanol. Good for emmissions and the environment but could have unpredictable results in modified boosted cars like ours.

Edited by Busky2k
Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

I am always looking for a positive, so another way of putting it is that the acid eats away at the combustion chamber (making it larger) and hence decompresses it allowing me to run more boost (and hence get more power without detonation). How much sulphur fuel will I need to get my RB25 up to an RB26?

The glass is always half full.

Thats good to hear, im going well.

In regards to the SAFF fuel, Im doubt their is many sa import owners with "hard" tuned cars though (correct me if im wrong).

There are always those who still haven't had a retune since Mik from Tilbrooks touched their cars (admitedly most of them dont run anymore)

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

Sorry "hard tuned" (before I edited it) meant cars with programmable ECUs that tuned to make more power than the stockie ECU. Ie leaner AFRs, more ign advance. Thus they are more succeptable to detonation from a shitty fuel. (being 'harder tuned' than factory if you get what i mean).

4door, your a crack up mate. :P In the real world, that means the clearances between your piston and bore open up due to wear. I think the rings suffered too IIRC.

Edited by Busky2k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...