Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gr8 car. ive been lookin into gettin one just waitin for finance to settle itself out. that www.gtiroz.net website is useless as they are an owners club not an enthusiasts club and u can view bugger-all of their site.

Im budgetin to spend approx 16-18k on mine as thats what it takes for a decent one nowadays.

You can usualli find one locally for about the same price as importing one nowadays and the clutches/ brakes and maybe gearboxes are all upgraded for ya!!!

Especialli if your in the eastern states. otherwise if ur in perth/ WA forget about finding one locally.

Paul

POCKET ROCKETS..a good friend of mine has one ..done bugger all to it and got a 13.9 out of it..the clutch did get done in it this week and it was an engine out job..and the gearboxes are a bit of a let down in em..other than that sr20 turbo AWD quad throttle body standard, killer package..they have a steel compressor wheel turbo standard too so dont be scared to wind up the boost

One of my best mates owns one and I know the gearboxes are weak but ones you break something if you replace it appropriately it wont break again. He spent like 5k on a gearbox rebuild and its tough as now, will withstand some mighty power.

I love them to death and will probably get one after the r32 monster of mine lands :)

Greg

defo go see here:

http://www.gtiroz.net/

I have owned 2 gtirs in my time.

Love them to bits. Need money and need to be well well maintained.

But can be awesome cars.

keep in mind there are a few dogs around that will be very tires gearbox and motors etc....

Mick

My best mate has one... he has had it for just over a year, and it has spent at least half of that time in the workshop. He's blown the stock turbo, two heavy duty clutches, and has had some suspension issues... and the latest, bearings on the gearbox input shaft are packin it in. Its a 92 model with just under 100,000km.

He just drives it too hard, and the turbo blew coz he was running 14psi through it, which was asking for trouble!

My opinion is that if you go easy on the drivetrain, then you should have a reliable car. Theres no need to worry bout the SR20, but when its making bigger power the stock gearbox/diffs/clutch starts to get a bit tired.

Great car in many respects tho... I considered getting one for a while :P

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

www.gtiroz.net good luck tryin to sign up though the mod shalom made an obstacle course..

i am an EX-owner of the pocket rocket RNN14..

great lil car. cheap as.. and the best SR20 factory engine ever. quad throttles r sweet.. prob with tunning as limited acum in plenum

when buying... get a 93-94model.(personal prefereance) nissan badge at front not P badge. basically if u blow ur gearbox or clutch its engine out. and the stock gearbox is basically a FWD box with a N/S transfer case for the rear tailshaft.. brakes are a bit undersized.. understeers alot due to being front heavy.. remove the front sway bar and get a whiteline rear sway bar... fixes it..

in a straightline ive blow away ferrari's evos STi'S GTR's. few grand on mods makes em quick. u can throw them into corners at high speeds get it sideways and come out on top. handles extremly good once u get the right suspension. very reliable apart from the gearbox but a par set will cost only AU$4000 and very worthwhile. good daily driver too. fairly spacious more than GTR. expect 350km per tank 45L.. and be aware that the thing is noisey.. timing chain solid hydo lifters.. tap tap tap.

my old GTiR had 160kwatw's (110kwatw stock). over 220kw at fly (175kw stock). it quite easially blow my new GTR away.

soon as u get ur's change ur front wheel bearings and exhast/dump and if u can slap on a FMIC the std tmic is good but heat soak takes a toll on ur launches..

Sold mine and got a GTR R32..it is a good upgrade but needs some money into her to make her worthy of the old GTiR..

GTiR was my first and a very good learning toy.. u'll be very happy with it.. it'll get u ready for the big toys.. im 17 and i already got my first GTR ahaha.. u learn from being scared

they r nicknamed.. mini Godzilla.

sold mine for $15000. excellent condition.. new owner did a few high launches and broke gearbox and something clutch related... foolish.

GTiRoz.net is an owners club yes. but u can log in as a guest and get valuable info on them. i guess u havent done ur research. that site is the best site on the GTiR.

do urself a favour and look up the site. u might learn something

One of my best mates owns one and I know the gearboxes are weak but ones you break something if you replace it appropriately it wont break again. He spent like 5k on a gearbox rebuild and its tough as now, will withstand some mighty power.

I love them to death and will probably get one after the r32 monster of mine lands :P

Greg

Monster 32 came, made 251rwkw's on light tune, I sold it and now I've got a gti-r on the way...

Says something? I think so :)

Greg

  • 4 months later...

hey mate i got one currently for sale.

asking 12k for it as i am ready to get rid of it becuase i need the money towards my new car...

ther eis not a thing wrong with this car either.

tein coilovers exhaust is about as far as mods go apart from heavy duty clutch!!!

perfect condition...

honestly anyone let me know if thye know someone interested

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...