Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gr8 car. ive been lookin into gettin one just waitin for finance to settle itself out. that www.gtiroz.net website is useless as they are an owners club not an enthusiasts club and u can view bugger-all of their site.

Im budgetin to spend approx 16-18k on mine as thats what it takes for a decent one nowadays.

You can usualli find one locally for about the same price as importing one nowadays and the clutches/ brakes and maybe gearboxes are all upgraded for ya!!!

Especialli if your in the eastern states. otherwise if ur in perth/ WA forget about finding one locally.

Paul

POCKET ROCKETS..a good friend of mine has one ..done bugger all to it and got a 13.9 out of it..the clutch did get done in it this week and it was an engine out job..and the gearboxes are a bit of a let down in em..other than that sr20 turbo AWD quad throttle body standard, killer package..they have a steel compressor wheel turbo standard too so dont be scared to wind up the boost

One of my best mates owns one and I know the gearboxes are weak but ones you break something if you replace it appropriately it wont break again. He spent like 5k on a gearbox rebuild and its tough as now, will withstand some mighty power.

I love them to death and will probably get one after the r32 monster of mine lands :)

Greg

defo go see here:

http://www.gtiroz.net/

I have owned 2 gtirs in my time.

Love them to bits. Need money and need to be well well maintained.

But can be awesome cars.

keep in mind there are a few dogs around that will be very tires gearbox and motors etc....

Mick

My best mate has one... he has had it for just over a year, and it has spent at least half of that time in the workshop. He's blown the stock turbo, two heavy duty clutches, and has had some suspension issues... and the latest, bearings on the gearbox input shaft are packin it in. Its a 92 model with just under 100,000km.

He just drives it too hard, and the turbo blew coz he was running 14psi through it, which was asking for trouble!

My opinion is that if you go easy on the drivetrain, then you should have a reliable car. Theres no need to worry bout the SR20, but when its making bigger power the stock gearbox/diffs/clutch starts to get a bit tired.

Great car in many respects tho... I considered getting one for a while :P

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

www.gtiroz.net good luck tryin to sign up though the mod shalom made an obstacle course..

i am an EX-owner of the pocket rocket RNN14..

great lil car. cheap as.. and the best SR20 factory engine ever. quad throttles r sweet.. prob with tunning as limited acum in plenum

when buying... get a 93-94model.(personal prefereance) nissan badge at front not P badge. basically if u blow ur gearbox or clutch its engine out. and the stock gearbox is basically a FWD box with a N/S transfer case for the rear tailshaft.. brakes are a bit undersized.. understeers alot due to being front heavy.. remove the front sway bar and get a whiteline rear sway bar... fixes it..

in a straightline ive blow away ferrari's evos STi'S GTR's. few grand on mods makes em quick. u can throw them into corners at high speeds get it sideways and come out on top. handles extremly good once u get the right suspension. very reliable apart from the gearbox but a par set will cost only AU$4000 and very worthwhile. good daily driver too. fairly spacious more than GTR. expect 350km per tank 45L.. and be aware that the thing is noisey.. timing chain solid hydo lifters.. tap tap tap.

my old GTiR had 160kwatw's (110kwatw stock). over 220kw at fly (175kw stock). it quite easially blow my new GTR away.

soon as u get ur's change ur front wheel bearings and exhast/dump and if u can slap on a FMIC the std tmic is good but heat soak takes a toll on ur launches..

Sold mine and got a GTR R32..it is a good upgrade but needs some money into her to make her worthy of the old GTiR..

GTiR was my first and a very good learning toy.. u'll be very happy with it.. it'll get u ready for the big toys.. im 17 and i already got my first GTR ahaha.. u learn from being scared

they r nicknamed.. mini Godzilla.

sold mine for $15000. excellent condition.. new owner did a few high launches and broke gearbox and something clutch related... foolish.

GTiRoz.net is an owners club yes. but u can log in as a guest and get valuable info on them. i guess u havent done ur research. that site is the best site on the GTiR.

do urself a favour and look up the site. u might learn something

One of my best mates owns one and I know the gearboxes are weak but ones you break something if you replace it appropriately it wont break again. He spent like 5k on a gearbox rebuild and its tough as now, will withstand some mighty power.

I love them to death and will probably get one after the r32 monster of mine lands :P

Greg

Monster 32 came, made 251rwkw's on light tune, I sold it and now I've got a gti-r on the way...

Says something? I think so :)

Greg

  • 4 months later...

hey mate i got one currently for sale.

asking 12k for it as i am ready to get rid of it becuase i need the money towards my new car...

ther eis not a thing wrong with this car either.

tein coilovers exhaust is about as far as mods go apart from heavy duty clutch!!!

perfect condition...

honestly anyone let me know if thye know someone interested

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...