Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest nismogtsx

Sounds good, but it that model a plumb back???

I mean so you need an after market comp or S-AFC to run that type of BOV....

Will it cause problems with stalling after hard revs or stutter at the idle....

Im keen though... very keen at that price...

Also is it adjustable... ie Hard/ Soft

I would find all this info my self but i cant tell what type from photos....

Other info like how old would help too and model numbers yada yada yada..

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8472-blitz-bov-sold/#findComment-127994
Share on other sites

Originally posted by nismogtsx

Sounds good, but it that model a plumb back???

I mean so you need an after market comp or S-AFC to run that type of BOV....

Will it cause problems with stalling after hard revs or stutter at the idle....

Im keen though... very keen at that price...

Also is it adjustable... ie Hard/ Soft

I would find all this info my self but i cant tell what type from photos....

Other info like how old would help too and model numbers yada yada yada..

Thanks

Its not a plumb back hence y it scares people 100m away when u hit full boost!!!:)

Once u get used to it u wont stall it unless your clutch is rooted. I used it for 1.5 years without any problems.

U can adjust it to when u want the full pssstttt to come on. Its set at the moment to flutter at low rev gear changes and psssttt at high revs.

Not sure of the model number, but its called the blitz supersonic bov since it got the trumpet at the end.

PM me if u want more info. And to COD to Gold Coast will only cost about $8 coz i just got sumthing sent from over there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8472-blitz-bov-sold/#findComment-128286
Share on other sites

well i only got 1 pm, which i replied 2!

to block the stock 1 off is quite simple, all you gotta do is put a piece of metal as a blanking plate in the line to block it! just unplug the main vacuum line under the stock bov and place the metal in there!

if u get it done at the same time as u get the bov installed it wont cost much at all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8472-blitz-bov-sold/#findComment-129194
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...