Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couple of GTST questions

I'm planning on getting a skyline gts-t once I sell my current car.

It will be an every day car and I do upto 400km a week but even with the extra fuel guzzling of a gts-t i'll probably still be doing a few hundred each week. I don't want a lecture on getting the non-turbo in that case or not thinking about a skyline cos i've made up my mind and a skyline is the way i'm going.

At the moment all the ones iv'e like have been a 95-96 gts25t ecr33. Is there any specific model I should look for or stay away from? I'm looking at spending 10 - 15k on the car.

I'm after a pretty much stock car since I want to do it up myself not drive around in someone else's done up car. I'm trying to decide wether I should get one with around 50 - 65k km on it and only have 1-2k to start modifying it with or to get something 3 - 4k cheaper with around 100k+ km on it so I can do more to the car.

I don't want to buy one with over 100k km on it just to have to spend alot of money on it next year cos it's stuffed so i'm just wondering if there's a cut off on how many km's it should have before I shouldn't even consider getting it?

For a decent budget to modify it I've seen some alright ones with upto 115k km on it, is that too much and will give me too much trouble in the next year or two considering how much it will be driven?

I'd really rather have the extra cash to spend on the car but not if i'm just going to have to fork out more in a year or so to keep the thing running.

I'm also having a look around trying to get a heads up on what i'm gonna do to it and such. As with anyone I want the exhaust to sound nice since i've head some shockers around here.

Poking around the lukey site I found this file for a VX commo http://www.lukey.com.au/growlsounds/Track6sound.mp3 onbviously it's a much bigger engine so it would be louder but that's just the kind of idling sound i'd like my car to have so i'd just like to know what kind of exhaust on an r33 gts-t will give it that kind of idle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84865-a-few-gts-t-questions/
Share on other sites

Guest tkch55

just an advise

if the car's a 95 model, don't expect 65k even if the odometer says so. it's almost impossible

even if it got genuine 65k, i'd probably expect to pay more than 15k

90% of the r33s of that vintage have already done more than 100k. but if the car is serviced and maintained well (tuned well if it's modified), it won't be a problem.

for a 10 year-old car, there's definitely the normal wear and tear as well as the consumables that'll need to be replaced. just depends on how many things the last owner's replaced.

and for r33 gtst exhaust note, i find they all sound pretty much simillar, the difference is just whether it's louder or quieter depending on the construction of the resonator and the material used

if you search, in the forced induction performance there's a thread about the different exhaust note b4 and after change of exhaust on an r34 gtt, it's even got sound files that you can download.

and in the turorial/diy section, in one of the stickied thread, it'll tell you what to look for if you're buying a skyline

cheers

what ever you do just don't believe what the odometer says

the condition of the car is far more important than the km on the odometer as most skyline has been tempered with before they come to australia

that's why you see a lot of 89 model gtr with only 80000K on it!!!!

Don't believe the odometer reading at all? The car's interior/exterior will often tell you how many kms it has done. Most dealer cars show around 65-70K. I bought my car around 2.5 months back and when I went to dealer cars they were priced like $27K upwards and were not in very clean condition.

Finally, I found one of a private dealer which had 85K on the odo and mate, the car had been driven with care. I could tell by looking at the interior and exterior. It drove well and did not sound like it had been thrashed at all. It's a 96 model stock car. I took it to a performace shop straight away and the machanic test drove it and said mate "this is not a lemon, it has done genuine 85K".

So far it's running beautifully, touch-wood.

As you know it's a 6 cylinder so even 90-100K on the odo is not too much, if it's kept with care.

Good Luck!!

Edited by harryg
Don't believe the odometer reading at all? The car's interior/exterior will often tell you how many kms it has done. Most dealer cars show around 65-70K. I bought my car around 2.5 months back and when I went to dealer cars they were priced like $27K upwards and were not in very clean condition.

Finally, I found one of a private dealer which had 85K on the odo and mate, the car had been driven with care. I could tell by looking at the interior and exterior. It drove well and did not sound like it had been thrashed at all. It's a 96 model stock car. I took it to a performace shop straight away and the machanic test drove it and said mate "this is not a lemon, it has done genuine 85K".

So far it's running beautifully, touch-wood.

As you know it's a 6 cylinder so even 90-100K on the odo is not too much, if it's kept with care.

Good Luck!!

95-96 GTS-t with 65k on the clock for $10-$15k? dont think so :D

but yeah, glad you asked, coz im also interested...what kind of mileage are these lines getting? i doubt they'll be like a ford doing 1,000,000 million k's (taxis) then being sold, and still going!

but what kind of k's have people seen out of R33 GTS-T's?

the 1 i'm buying has like 122,000 on it...which i believe to be genuine, and although high compared to others on the market, at least its safer to assume this 1 is legit. and thats still only 12,000 a year, which isnt too bad!

the 1's with 50k are so un-believable that i wouldnt buy 1 for that reason anyway.

cuddly. there is an R33 on carsales...claims that it was a lady owner, and its stock etc...and i remember it being way cheaper than any of the others...i think like $11-12k. ill find the link for u and post it up

I would go for the 96 or later model, simply for the facelift they got in the series 2. You will appreciate it more later. Plus the standard airbag(s) and more common ABS is a good point.

The 95 has the airbag and ABS on some as well but the front end was looking tired by this time. The series 2 headlights are significantly better imo...

can anyone identify this headlight as series 1 or 2?

light.jpg

i think the grille bit on the left gave it away.

is someone able to list mods, parts and prices to get the fuel economy as efficient as possible... and how many L/100k or k's per tank i should approximately be expecting...

Edited by ryMan

HI All,

I too am in the market for an R33, and although alot of vehicles have dodgy k's on the clock. It is also very possible to get one with minimal k's. My mates brother lived in Japan for 4 years, he had a car and only did 25000 k's over that period. He reckons everyone has cars over there but most people dont travel far at all just to or from work etc. THey are not travelling hours in cars everyday like we do. Obviously this is not the case for all but i do think thats its definately possible to get one with genuine low k's if you look hard enough and be patient. My theory is that most dodgy importers buy the high k ones cheap then wind them back and flog them off at an inflated price. Like alot of poeple have said "you get what you pay for".

Possible but quite unlikely - as everyone said - check the condition of the car.. if you find - worn gear stick, worn stearing wheel, paint peeling in engine bay, worn seats than there is a good chance that the kms are wrong..

Personally I got a 98 R33 - and it had 69,000 on the clock.. I tend to believe this a hell of alot more than the 4 x 1996/97 ones with exactly 60,000 or 64,000kms which is not realistic when you look at what the engine bay looks like..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...