Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Fitted it up on Saturday . As you can see in the pics its got 2 x afm . However only 1 was wired up . As i,m running an apexi safc 2 i tried to add enough signal to compensate for the fact that the afm air speed would be 1/2 what it used to . I had to increase signal to nearly max what the safc can put out . HMMM Sooo switched the input signal to the safc to think it was connected to a q45 90mm afm , as i kinda worked out the air flow speed thru a 90mm t/b would be about the same as 2 x 70 mm inlets . IT WORKED . So the setup consiasts of :

2 x 60 mm rb25 throttle bodies

2 x 70 mm rb25 air flow meters ( only one is wired up , the other is left there to have equal restrictions on both inlets )

apexi safc 2 , input signal set at 1 ( q45 infinity afm 99 mm signal)

output signal set at 4 ( rb25 ecu being used )

As a preliminary tune i have put in 20% + at all low throttle settings

27% + at all high throttle settings

So far i,m pretty impressed by the way it drives . Seems more responsive and more torque . At a steady 100 kmh the throttle was 14 % now its only 8 % .

Will take it out to Willowbank drags test and tune soon as i can .

Theres still a few things to tidy up on it but at least its fitted and running well .

post-9523-1131918521.jpg

post-9523-1131918559.jpg

post-9523-1131918596.jpg

Edited by dondesoto
awesome to hear that it is up and running, have been following this for a while.

are you planning on shielding/venting the pods? would have to be drawing some pretty warm air as they are now.

thats a temporary setup to get it running .

will be running 2 tubes with 45 degree bends so that pod filters will be behind headlight . shielding , thats a good idea too and will try it too

wow!! does it fit with with a bonnet? you really need to put this on a dyno!!!!

nup , after i took the pic , i went to shut the bonnet found front filter hitting . so put a longer bit of hose on it and sat it lower . also took off the afm thats not wired up .

dyno would be nice

am going to willowbank drags test and tune tommorrow night

Edited by dondesoto
are you gonna at least run some sort of a cai or a heat sheild over you extractors? i dont think that nice heat will do you any good.

looks very very interesting, have you done any work to the interneals? high c/r, cams etc???

steve

its rb25de head on rb30e block , using rb25de pistons , gives me 10.5-1 compression . still has stock cams with the vvt hooked up . have an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust cam .Still looking for cams at the elusive bargain price . Head is unmodified apart from port matching manifolds to head .

Yep will be re routing those inlets and shield them .

Edited by dondesoto

You may have issues with the VVT and high lift cams at such high compression levels. The timing doesnt have to be that far out for the valves to hit the piston crown in the RB25.

I was playing around yesterday to see how far out the timing has to be before they make contact... not much! And that vwas with standard cams...

sweet shall see out tonight then don.... still got some last minute things to do to mine so im leaving work soon... also have to make a 2 hour round trip to pick the bloody car trailer up....

i feel like an idiot... finished everything off went to fit the front runners and forgot i needed longer wheel studs.... went to the toold box and was 2 long studs short.... so they just arrived then on a one hour courier.... always dramas... gotta through it back together this arvo before i head out.

sweet shall see out tonight then don.... still got some last minute things to do to mine so im leaving work soon... also have to make a 2 hour round trip to pick the bloody car trailer up....

i feel like an idiot... finished everything off went to fit the front runners and forgot i needed longer wheel studs.... went to the toold box and was 2 long studs short.... so they just arrived then on a one hour courier.... always dramas... gotta through it back together this arvo before i head out.

IT HAPPENS

really looking forward to hearing ,seeing your car run tonight

That's some awesome work you have done there Don! It sounds like you have it running OK now, but I thought I would throw in my 2c that may or may not help.

If you take a look through the SAFC install guide you will see that there is some info on setting up different AFM combos (ie. non factory setups) for both GTR and VG30DETT motors which might help you. The one I'm thinking of is the 2 AFM conversion for the VG, where the 2 AFM voltages are set to be added together before being passed to the ECU. This might be a better way of going about it, as you can use the correct AFM resolution setting (RB25 instead of Q45). Just a thought.

hey mate how did u end up going last night?? sorry i didnt come say hi i wasnt in a very good mood last night, not much went right yesterday and i was keen to just get as many passes down ass i could.. only managed 1 clean full power pass, resulted in a 12.2 still should be more left in it hopefully.

Willowbank drags last night . Best of 14.4 @ 94.5 mph and a 1.96 60 ft . Am i bit dissapointed in those figures . All the more reason to put it on the dyno and get it sorted properly . Spose i shouldnt complain its the best times i,ve got , previous best 14.7 @ 92 mph .

hey mate how did u end up going last night?? sorry i didnt come say hi i wasnt in a very good mood last night, not much went right yesterday and i was keen to just get as many passes down ass i could.. only managed 1 clean full power pass, resulted in a 12.2 still should be more left in it hopefully.

sorry i didnt see or hear your car , next time .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...