Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Stalling Issue "need A Straight Fix"

DriftSquad

By DriftSquad,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DriftSquad Experienced

DriftSquad

Posted
Posted

i have an R32 GTS-T and my stalling issue is when u punch it, then put your foot on the clutch the revs drop so low it stalls!

does any 1 know if

-adding a new ground to the fule pump will fix it? and can this kill the pump?

-a new o2 sensor? and AFM?

-vacume leak?

-a tune?

-cloged fule filter

anything i miss?

thanks,

browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted (edited)

What I would do is find someone who is able to run some diagnostics on the car to see whether there is a specific sensor/switch/actuator thats sh!t itself. Either a workshop or someone who can datalog using a CONSULT interface and who knows what they are looking at.

You might be able to isolate the problem quickly and easily, with minimal headscratching.

Edited by browny
B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

i have an R32 GTS-T and my stalling issue is when u punch it, then put your foot on the clutch the revs drop so low it stalls!

One aspect of the ecu's operation that could cause stalling is if it fails to activate decelleration fuel cut recovery rpm control.

Say if you take you foot right off the throttle to stop at the lights the ecu stops the injectors while he car slows.

As it comes to a stop the injectors start operating again and the ecu holds the idle at about 1300 or so until the idle stabilises then it drops back to normal idle.

Sometimes, maybe when the ecu doesn't get the correct signal back from some sensor or other, this recovery control malfunctions causing either stalling or fast idle problems.

I'd like to see any explanations of possible causes of this. eg more detail on how decel. fuel cut recovery works or which sensors could be involved.

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted (edited)

While I was typing my previous post I was thinking what sensors might cause a problem.

It occurred to me that the car should have a clutch pedal switch.

I went out to the garage to see it my r32 had one and there was one but it wasn't connected. I looked at the loom that was near it and I found a plug tucked back into the loom.

The wires reached the switch and it plugged straight in.

I don't know why it was disconnected but it looked deliberate.

Now I want to test drive it and see if I've fixed my longstanding crazy idle problem but I'm parked in for the night.

I'll check it out tomorrow if I get time.

Edited by B0oStEr
B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted
While I was typing my previous post I was thinking what sensors might cause a problem.

It occurred to me that the car should have a clutch pedal switch.

I went out to the garage to see it my r32 had one and there was one but it wasn't connected. I looked at the loom that was near it and I found a plug tucked back into the loom.

The wires reached the switch and it plugged straight in.

I don't know why it was disconnected but it looked deliberate.

Now I want to test drive it and see if I've fixed my longstanding crazy idle problem but I'm parked in for the night.

I'll check it out tomorrow if I get time.

I took it for a short drive this morning and it's a much smoother car to drive.

Before I put the plug into the switch the idle would come down in steps when I stop at the lights 1400, 1200, 700 over 5-10 seconds.

Now it drops straight to 700 and stays there.

It has also fixed the problem of the revs dropping too low during gear changes especially on the overrun when the fuel cut operates.

I've owned this car for nearly three years, I can't believe I didn't pick this up sooner.

One thing that puzzles me though is that the way the plug was tucked into the loom looks as though it was factory so maybe it has been this way from new.

Have a look guys and see if your clutchpedal switch is connected and let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...