Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Although the value at which it flashes can be set..

I used to think my knock levels were okay.. then I've seen 90% of people have lower knock readings than me ;) Time for a retune..

i think the knock on the power fc is a load of crap simply because if u go over a bump or pot hole or the road isnt the greatest --(NSW ROADS) the knock level will b all over the place. if u want to be accurate u would get an exhaust temp reading!... my 2cents worth!

i think the knock on the power fc is a load of crap simply because if u go over a bump or pot hole or the road isnt the greatest --(NSW ROADS) the knock level will b all over the place. if u want to be accurate u would get an exhaust temp reading!... my 2cents worth!

I dont think understand how the knock system works ,it's looking for more like harmonics then just bump your a knock to the car. And yes they do work very well or why would a cars like Keir wilsons retain the power fc and hand controller when his running a full metec system (knock detection).

As for knock levels well i think to many people get carried away with the levels as every car is different especially car run fordge pistons and lump cams etc

BUT just concide this that APEXI and i believe nissan don't think there a real issue to you get around 60 knocks as that is when they fire the warning light (not before all they would have set the level lower) all that said most responible tuner will normally stay below 40 or so to give a bit of head room for a bad datch of fuel and or different weather condition to the day of it,s tuning.

pete

I dont think understand how the knock system works ,it's looking for more like harmonics then just bump your a knock to the car. And yes they do work very well or why would a cars like Keir wilsons retain the power fc and hand controller when his running a full metec system (knock detection).

As for knock levels well i think to many people get carried away with the levels as every car is different especially car run fordge pistons and lump cams etc

BUT just concide this that APEXI and i believe nissan  don't think there a real issue to you get around 60 knocks as that is when they fire the warning light (not before all they would have set the level lower) all that said most responible tuner will normally stay below 40 or so to give a bit of head room for a bad datch of fuel and or different weather condition to the day of it,s tuning.

pete

okay i was thinking that knock is the knock inside the engine right as u explained the harmonics well that can change quite rapidly esp if u have hard engine mounts and suspension....is this right ...?

i looked at my knock after going over a bump in the road and it changed...? so in other words it is not an accurate reading at all since it did affect the harmonics in the engine....? and therefor it might not be reading the harmonics in the engine but actually the shock from the bump...?

something on your car is f**ked mate if bumps in the road cause a knock reading. I always monitor knock in my car and it is never affected by road conditions. never. and i will include in this burnouts, drag launches, 4 track days and a fair bit of street driving.

exhaust temp reading is really only a good measure of engine effeciency/AFR and is not as quick to react as a knock meter. they are two completely different things for completely different purposes.

something on your car is f**ked mate if bumps in the road cause a knock reading. I always monitor knock in my car and it is never affected by road conditions. never. and i will include in this burnouts, drag launches, 4 track days and a fair bit of street driving.

exhaust temp reading is really only a good measure of engine effeciency/AFR and is not as quick to react as a knock meter. they are two completely different things for completely different purposes.

ahhaaahah thats a laugh!

so u dont get any knock when going in a pot hole.....?

i find that hard to believe since the vibration is carried through the car...mmmm

but anyways each to your own and ill tell u one thing just had the engine rebuilt ...so its not f**ked!...lololol

im just saying that is not accurate the knock on the power fc.

so u dont get any knock when going in a pot hole.....?

i find that hard to believe since the vibration is carried through the car...mmmm

no i don't unless you are talking about a 3 foot deep cavern (which i can't comment on as i've never driven into one). I have been in potholes before, and a couple of times gone offline a little at turn 4 oran park (big bump there) and yes the knock reading didn't change.

I never said your engine was f**ked i said: "something on your car is f**ked" it may be gearbox problem sending a shock through the crank, or a faulty knock sensor, or knock sensor wiring, or it may just be a shit tune. but i can tell you no car i have ever been in has the knock reading affected by bumps in the road...

no i don't unless you are talking about a 3 foot deep cavern (which i can't comment on as i've never driven into one). I have been in potholes before, and a couple of times gone offline a little at turn 4 oran park (big bump there) and yes the knock reading didn't change.

I never said your engine was f**ked i said: "something on your car is f**ked" it may be gearbox problem sending a shock through the crank, or a faulty knock sensor, or knock sensor wiring, or it may just be a shit tune. but i can tell you no car i have ever been in has the knock reading affected by bumps in the road...

ok ok ok im not going to start answer this if u go over a pot hole or hit the ripple strip at the track and u feel it im sure your engine will feel it....

it may be due to my hard suspension and engine mounts and all the other siffening ..hahah

but im going to argue.

okay i was thinking that knock is the knock inside the engine right as u explained the harmonics well that can change quite rapidly esp if u have hard engine mounts and suspension....is this right ...?

i looked at my knock after going over a bump in the road and it changed...? so in other words it is not an accurate reading at all since it did affect the harmonics in the engine....? and therefor it might not be reading the harmonics in the engine but actually the shock from the bump...?

no that is not right

you need to open your eyes a little and think

If yours is doing this, dont just say the pfc is crap and the knock detection does work may you should be asking why is mine not working (because i can safety tell you that they dont all do what your does) and the knocks and haromics dont have to come from inside the motor as i have seen a exhaust touching the chasis effect knock reading before,(your could be as simple as this).

The knock detection system of the std gtr with apexi pfc is one of the single most helpfull tools in tuning the car a tuner can have(trust me i have know tuned a few).

pete

The reason I asked this question was becuase I have just added a power FC to my GTR and the tune is (out of the box) I was told that they have very advandce timimg so I did a dyno run with results of 11.5 A/F and a knocklevel of around 20.

Was told by a Melbourne PFC tuner that anything around 50 to 60 was bad.But then I was reading in PFC FAQ and it said that anything more than 10 was bad.But it sounds like 10 is a bump steer <_< so all is good B)

Thanks

no that is not right

you need to open your eyes a little and think

If yours is doing this, dont just say the pfc is crap and the knock detection does work may you should be asking why is mine not working (because i can safety tell you that they dont all do what your does) and the knocks and haromics dont have to come from inside the motor as i have seen a exhaust touching the chasis effect knock reading before,(your could be as simple as this).

The knock detection system of the std gtr with apexi pfc is one of the single most helpfull tools in tuning the car a tuner can have(trust me i have know tuned a few).

pete

i found my knock sensor was f**ked sorry guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...