Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just fitted a Hybrid FMIC to my Series II Skyline, Now my problem is my car is now running ridiculous amount on boost roughly 15-20psi when I look at my boost gauge, which I know its un-safe for my stock turbo, when I hit 3,500 revs my car spools to boost then my car starts to jerk so I keep my revs down low, I've only got a FMIC, turbo back exhaust, and af, no boost controller. I'm wondering if anyone esle has this similar problem that could shed some light and tell me whats wrong with my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/
Share on other sites

sounds like youve left off the cooler to actuator pressure line off, so the actuator never opens so the wastegate never opens, aka boost keeps climbing for ever. this can be fatal so be careful. check your lines and the air tubes running to the turbo area

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1548629
Share on other sites

Hey, Ive also just fitted a hybrid cooler to my R33 with standard turbo, turbo back exhaust, bleeder valve, and mine does the same thing, except i run low boost (9psi), and it still jerks at high revs???? Could this mean I need to get a bigger fuel pump, or Do I need a fuel cut defender fitted. Ive checked for any boost leaks and still cant figure it out. Would a electronic boost controller fix this problem or power fc????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1549352
Share on other sites

Hey, Ive also just fitted a hybrid cooler to my R33 with standard turbo, turbo back exhaust, bleeder valve, and mine does the same thing, except i run low boost (9psi), and it still jerks at high revs???? Could this mean I need to get a bigger fuel pump, or Do I need a fuel cut defender fitted. Ive checked for any boost leaks and still cant figure it out. Would a electronic boost controller fix this problem or power fc????

Could be richening up to much in which case you would need a SAFC or Power FC you. Either that or you may have faulty coils.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1550153
Share on other sites

G'day,

I think I know what your prob is mate, When you removed the standard piping you cut into the vacuum line running of your standard intercooler pipe but prob did not plug this back into another vac line somewhere so you will have full boost, this is very very bad, dont drive it. T into your inlet manifold somewhere ie BOV so the wastegate can read some boost. This will fix your problem.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1550215
Share on other sites

Im no expert on this sorta stuff? what do i have to do? sorry if im sounding stupid but Im worried about my car.

Did you put the cooler pipes in yourself? There is usually a vacuum hose nipple on the standard cooler pipe which leeds to the wastegate which hangs of the turbo. Because you have changed this pipe you will have to find somewhere where the wastegate can read boost from, Cut your BOV vacuum hose and tee of that into the satandard t piece off the wastegate and hook it up. If this is already hooked up then your problem lies elsewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1551104
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with my skyline i fitted a front mount intercooler and the car wont rev past 3500 i changed the spark plugs and gapped them to 0.8 once i put them in started the car i could tell that the idle was better when i drove it it went hard, very hard so it solved my problem try that first, Always try the easy stuff first i learnt that the hard way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1551907
Share on other sites

hey guys! im in the middle of installing my Hybrid if anyone could post pics of where they have connected there line to there BOV then that would be good also if you have any pics showing what the piping and intercooler looks like as an end result.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1557624
Share on other sites

hey guys! im in the middle of installing my Hybrid if anyone could post pics of where they have connected there line to there BOV then that would be good also if you have any pics showing what the piping and intercooler looks like as an end result.

cheers

I went the all cheap kit cost me around $600 and works like magic can feel the power straight away but the car is running rich and is dumping fuel so ill need to tune the air fuel ratios. Just cut the BOV vacuum hose and tee into that it easy. I think you actually get a better reading from the original spot so n the future im gonna weld in a nipple to my piping.

Heres some pics.

post-14246-1125534944.jpg

post-14246-1125534973.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85500-just-fitted-fmic/#findComment-1557680
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...