Jump to content
SAU Community

loud buzzing sound (alternator whine?)

GiJOr33

By GiJOr33,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

GiJOr33 Experienced

GiJOr33

Posted
Posted

It's the traditional whine sound from all the speakers which rises in pitch when you accelerate/rev the engine. What are the measures i need to take to get rid of it?

I've got an Alpine CVA1000, EQ, 4ch Amp, and stacker... the stacker, eq and headunit are connected via Alpine's Ai-NET, and from the eq to the amp it's RCA's. The RCA leads have a ground cable at each end which i presume grounds the shielding. I don't think there is a noise filter on the alternator (so i spose i should get one of them to start with), I do have the power cable running next to the RCA's due to the difficulty of placing them separately.

The sound happens on all sources eg radio or cd player.

What measures can i take apart from moving the power cable to the other side of the car and putting in an alternator noise filter (actually, what type is the best one to get, and how big?)

--

Thanks,

Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GiJOr33 Experienced

GiJOr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the earthing of what? the amp? Cos i sanded the metal surface back that it was going to touch to make sure there was good contact. RCA's cost me $40 each... so i would expect them to be decent.

What about the size of the Negative Battery cable? should i perhaps replace it with a bigger one? like a 4ga cable?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Tool Enthusiast

The Tool

Posted
Posted

is most likely to be either poor earthing or a poor contact/connection somewhere - make sure all your terminals are secured well and have good contacts.

also i hope you aren't running the headunit, stacker & amp all off the same power cable - it is best to run amps on seperate cable.

is your battery in the boot? if so, try running the amp straight off these terminals.

out of curiosity, what size power + earth cable are you running?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GiJOr33 Experienced

GiJOr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I sort of found the problem... i have the excess RCA cables bunched up and cable tied in the boot, the power cable from the battery (i have one for each amp, 8ga for both the power and earth). I moved the RCA's a little and the noise went away... and since putting everything back in the car it has come back a little (not as loud as it was)... grrrrr... so i'm gonna chuck a supressor on the alternator to see if that does anything to remove the little bit of noise, otherwise i'm going to have to pull out the back seats again and see if i can relocate the bundled RCA leads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

hmm i got that noise too, but before that my sub always popped, when i tore things apart i found out that it had been earthed on an area with a thin layer of paint. so i scratched the paint off a lil and re-earthed and the popping stopped... now all i have to do is get rid of the whine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GiJOr33 Experienced

GiJOr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah, haven't had time to sort it yet... mine are in the RCA's, they are running a little close to the power cable.

Perhaps check your RCA's from the deck to your amp (if you have them), if not, then i don't know how to get rid of the whine... perhaps put a supressor on the alternator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Stick the caliper in your vice with soft jaws, that way you can turn it upside down simply. I think the factory lines are 10x1mm but I'd just take the whole thing down to your local Pirtek/MSCN and get them to sort it out.
    • PranK
      from switzerland to the moon

      By PranK · Posted

      Hi Andy and welcome!  Got any pics of the customers cars you're talking about? 
    • Nismo32
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Nismo32 · Posted

      Thanks for that Komdotkom Does anyone by chance know what the thread is on the end of the hard line of the GTST front brake system before it goes to the braided line - will need to get a fitting to put in there as you say. Could you do this with the caliper on the car? Just get the pistons all the way back with a spacer or even some clamps? Im running a 36mm disc and 18mm pads - the pistons are almost as far back as they can get but i think with some old pads and a wedge I can make sure. Just easier if the caliper is mounted to something.
    • Komdotkom
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      The most important thing to do is to ensure that the pistons are fully back in the bores so that you can't get air bubbles forming behind them. If you've got AKB springs then you'll need to make some timber wedges to hold them back which is pretty simple - but you'll need wedges for bleeding anyway to stop the pistons moving up the bore. I'm a big fan of bleeding calipers from the 'bottom' because bubbles like to go 'up'. Since you're going to have the calipers off the car and mounted to some sort of fixture (unless you've got 5 sets of hands) I'd suggest that you bleed it by introducing fluid from both directions and with the caliper in both orientations. Get a barb for the end of your braided line and go to the chemist and get a 100ml syringe to force the fluid through with. You can use any old shit fluid for this (*new) because you'll displace it once you bleed the system properly later on with SRF or similar. Probably worth cracking the transfer pipe too just to be sure. Once you've got brake fluid everywhere and no more bubbles stick the caliper back on the car and bleed the fluid up from the caliper to the MC.
    • Lithium
      EFR Anti surge = T51R mod?

      By Lithium · Posted

      I've never had a T51R mod done on a turbo but can answer things to at least give you things to consider. Firstly, I'm pretty sure "T51R mod" is not going to be a completely standard identical design.  Different folks will make their own calls on how they want to make the sound, and different compressors and housings will give different amounts of space to work with as well - so the design and effect from company to company and turbo to turbo will be arbitrary.    In terms of "is it the same", no... it won't be, I'm pretty confident of that.   Whether it will have a negative (or NOT negative for that matter) effect really would be foolish of any of us to speculate on without any data.  Surge slots, or map width enchancement grooves basically bleed air from part way up the compressor out to the compressor inlet... effectively from the turbo's point of view it is an air leak that allows the turbo to be re-fed with the air that has been leaked.  When done "right" it can allow air that the turbo can't pump into the engine efficiently to spill back into the intake as opposed to cause a surge condition. Simply put, it has a direct effect on the efficiency of the compressor wheel.  When you are getting up to the maximum capacity of the compressor wheel the design of the intake and compressor rely on every bit of area of the inducer etc to work as efficiently as possible, if you have something literally designed to cause a leak of turbulent air (to make the sound) back to the intake it's hard to imagine there won't be some cost to the higher end of the flow capacity but I wouldn't dare even try and guess if it were either major, or academic.  Just bare in mind there will be an effect. On the "upside", I'm assuming you are going to be running the 1.05a/r hotside you had on the EFR9180 as you mentioned you don't want to do any fabrication work, and the 1.45 hotside DOES need the dump pipe (and as such, possibly exhaust) shifted as it actually pushes the turbine outlet further from the CHRA... its a huge housing.   I doubt you'll be able to safely push the 1.05a/r hotside on pump gas far enough for the 9280 compressor to actually start getting to the point you have to worry about sacrificing a bit of flow for sound. As you know, I'm a big EFR fan where it suits - unlike some, I just go on merits and suitability for setups and there are a lot of cases they are unbeatable.   In the case of where you're going though, I'm not convinced that line is the best thing for the job.  To do it right I'd either stay with what you have, as you're finding it's pretty hard to make the car more powerful than it is without sacrificing "something" - or do a "proper" upgrade to an all new beast that has the turbine flow to support what you are looking for, and arguably also has the T51R sound and vibe which I'm hardly going to throw stones at you for looking for... you'll remember that my turbo choice for my old R33 was absolutely influenced by the induction noise the GT3076Rs make haha.    Given the price of an EFR9280 and T51R mod, any work to get it installed and tuned to suit may turn out to give a result that makes you wonder if it was worth the effort - but if you're willing to spend that and not worried about massive gains, I'm pretty sure what you're proposing *will* give you some of that sound and probably stretch the power out a bit further in the rpm.   I've so far not heard any unmodified EFR sound "whistly" like what I'm assuming you're looking for, though.
×
×
  • Create New...