Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having problems with my car (misfiring), have done the plugs. But I hink it will either be the coil packs or soemthing with the air/fuel. The engine is a RB25 and is running a Haltech E6K.

I was thinking of taking it to APC because I have heard they have the good equipment for Haltech. But what sort of price would I be looking at roughly for a good tune??

Should they be able to fix my misfire??

Any other suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86109-where-to-get-dynotune/
Share on other sites

I got quoted to tune my 32 gtst, $400, i also back a miss firing problem, sound like a wrx, i spoke to my mechanic and he said definetly a coil pack has died,

so mines running on 5cylinders, and sluggish as all hell off the line, i can rev it too 5 drop the clutch and it almsot drouns itself

I *had* the same problem up untill yesterday, have a look for the thread i started in forced induction performance and read that for a checklist of things you can do at home rather then spending $'s at a workshop. I had a bad earth which cost me $9 to fix and a dead coil which cost me $35, try some of the things in that thread to diognose the problem, then if all else fails, go to a mechanic.

YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE TO GET IT DYNO'D TO FIND OUT THE PROBLEM!!!

i had similar dramas with my 32 and had it dynod at couple of different places and both times miss diagnosed and cost me alot of time and money.

A mate then told me of EFI diagnostic and repair centre at capalaba and he hooked it up and told me what was wrong with it in an hour or so and cost 1/10th the amount of cash the others were charging.

just cause a place has a dyno doesn't mean they have any idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...