Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Actually, I'd forgotten about that.

I'd definitely consider a Cayman S to replace my car, if I could guarantee getting a decent amount of power out of it without having to do something major (like a 996 TT engine conversion). Perhaps a Boxster too.

NO budget it would have to be among:

1.porsche carrera gt

2.maserati mc12

2.pagani zonda

3.tvr speed 12 (not sure about rego for that though, may be hard)

i think a mosler should have a place in there, but the looks just dont do it for me.

budget

bmw 330ci, too many others depending on price..

Edited by siksII
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Well there is this car that I would raise an eyebrow to : FIAT COUPE TURBO.

very f**king fast for a non-Jap car and looks pretty good too. Best of all, if you import one in, it's going to be damn rare!

Saw one on sale in Drive last week, actually.

FWD turbo "sports cars" aren't my cup of tea, but they definitely look different.

ther r very few cars that i would get if it couldnt b a jap one but heres a list of wat i would get

E46 BMW M3

Alfa Romeo GT

Lotus Elise

This is all considering i had the cash to spend on all these outrageously overpriced european wanna b's

Its a lot easier to pay for shipping from Japan than it is from Europe (you know, since one is half a world away). Hell, a Commodore or Falcon is cheaper than a landing a brand new G35 Skyline (if we're talking apples to apples by factoring the cost of shipping, compliance to ADRs, and import duty against the local product) so maybe Nissan's a "wanna b" too.

As for the cars making "the cut", what are you comparing it with?

The Elise is a low volume car, made by a niche manufacturer. In Europe they're cheap enough, and they'd give a Tommy Kaira ZZ-II or ASL Garaiya a good run for its money. You can't expect it to compare with a volume model car.

On price point locally delivered, the only "sports car driver" that would choose a 350Z Roadster over an Elise is a hairdresser. Not to say the Z Roadster is necessarily slow, but on a nice country road or on the track the Elise will get pipped in the higher gears down the straights, but take the Z out under brakes and through the bends.

The Z's more comfortable and easier to drive, but buying a sports car and a convertible for its practicality at the expense of its performance prowess was, I thought, the definition of wanna b.

And what luxury sports coupe does Japan currently offer to truly compete with the M3? A car that is impressively quick, while still having a luxurious interior. The 350Z and RX-8 can't match the M3's interior, although maybe the Infiniti G35 might be on-par. None of them will keep up with an M3 on the track, though. The NSX isn't really an M3 competitor, and even if it was its interior can't match the BMW. Mitsubishi, Subaru and Toyota don't even offer a top-spec coupe (anymore).

technically an Elise dosen't qualify either as it has a toyota engine :O

You'd have to get the rover K series engined elise with a massive 82(ish)kw. Or the Elise 111S has a bit more power and still runs the K-series engine. Only the top spec 111R and Exige have the Toyota 2ZZ engine. I'd love an elise, but the $$$ just don't add up for me. A 111R is about $100k, which is TEN TIMES THE PRICE of my GTST!!! Still love the Elise/Exige though...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...