Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(Car is 1990 R32 GTR, recent import. Mods: cat back exhaust, pods, EBC)

I just pulled the panel off in my passenger footwell to access my ECU (about to put PowerFC in), and found my ECU has a SWAT sticker/badge on it.

After a moments dreaming my car had been used by the U.S. 'Special Weapons And Tactics', I thought I'd try to find out what this was.

Now after a search I know SWAT stands for Stagea Web for Advanced Tune, and is apparently a Japanese tuning house for Stageas. Thats all I found.

Has anyone ever heard of these guys tuning GTRs, as thats what I assume a sticker on an ECU means, and what is the overal opinion on their quality of work etc?

Thanks in advance guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86697-swat-tuned-gtr-ecu/
Share on other sites

Remapping R32 ECU's is easy and very common. Some workshop (SWAT presumably) remapped the ECU. This usually means slightly too much ignition advance for our 98 ron, they have 100 ron. So be carefull and watch the knock levels. Best to whack it on the dyno and check the A/F ratios as well, they can be a little lean.

:P cheers :huh:

Thanks for your comments guys.

I now believe that SWAT is an owners group or club, but now I'm puzzled as to why my car's previous owner had a Stagea club's sticker on his ECU of all places. I mean, fair enough if he has a Stagea or likes them, he could have put a sticker in his window, or on his dash or somewhere visible, thats the point of stickers right? But on the ECU which is behind a panel?

I'll have a look at the ecu and see if I can tell if its been fiddled with(I've been told what to look for), and I'll let you guys know.

By the way, I'm thinking about getting a Stagea when I finally cave in to family pressure and sell Godzilla, but just dont tell the GTR guys!

Edited by liber8_d

Well i looked in my issue of Speed magazine (the pink one with the story on the SAU-Vic Great Ocean Road cruise..

And the 890kW 260RS Stagea has a big SWAT sticker on the back...

That website is pretty funny

2006.6.19 The mini- tour which eats marine products ones was

The same place as last year? It seems that is (laughing)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...