Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i used serenity and i can't recommend sound deadening enough.

for $100-200 spend you get an absolute audible difference.

if you spend an extra $100-200 on HU, sub, amp & splits you won't be able to pick any difference.

i sound deadened both doors and under the rear seats. the doors are the very least you should do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-1572417
Share on other sites

I used about 8kg of SD.

I won't install another system without sound deadening atleast in the front doors - I didn't want to weigh my car down too much I just wanted to get the most from my drivers - which it did.

Wolverine is right, it's the most noticable difference, I'll just add it's probably more useful when you're using quality equipment in the first place, so if you're using sony explod gear I wouldn't bother. I have focal kvp2 splits in the front doors and wanted to get the most out of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-1573558
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if you have it over there, but Bostik Automotive Sound Deadening panels are a very good bang for buck alternative.

Iver here it is about $100nz for 10 x 500mmx500mm sheets. I'm pretty sure that the fusion stuff is this just rebranded.

I'd rate it as good as brown bread.Dynamat is better, but maybe 15-30% better for about 400% price increase.

As has been said, sound deadening your vehicle will make a VERY noticable difference in road noise and getting rid of rattles/resonance from your speakers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-1574958
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Please excuse my thread grave-digging operation,

But does anyone have more info on where you put it? I was thinking of is sticking to the inside of the outer door skin, naturally, but how much you need to cover?

What about the inner chassis of the door, (the bit that you screw the door trim to) did you put anything behind or infront of it as well?

Thanks for any input...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2030471
Share on other sites

wow, you did everything then.

What diod you use to do the access holes?

Did you just cut out some MDF and silicone in?

Is that in an R32?

Looks different to mine - r33.

I take it you've used dynamat on the metal parts, or is it..

What's the TAC stuff? is that like brown bread?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2030669
Share on other sites

Dynamat extream on the metal bits. Holes are filled in with aluminium. Stereo shop doesnt want any come back calls from wood rotting and rust problems. Also less and thiner. So then thats silconed in.

Its also got some foam behind the speakers themselfs, just makes that area more dead. Plain chant or something, from fusion.

The tac-mat is a closed cell foam to stop any rattles from the door cards.

It all works very well.

But inregards to the comment $200 anywhere else wont make the same difference... Im not so sure about that. Get an eclipse head deck, then tell me you dont notice the difference. Really for a good system you need everything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2031179
Share on other sites

Im gonna get mine done as well in april sometime hopefully.. so will keep you posted.. for hertz 165s..

Is it worth gettin the full door deadend or half the door?? coz theres a huge difference in price!!!

Do it once and do it properly. I seriously noticed a fairly big difference with getting the acess holes filled. You probably dont need to go to the extent of foam on the door cards, but Im (trying) to win or place in some SQ comps. So every little bit counts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2031522
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
im looking at sound deading my boot lid rear quarter panels, doors etc etc and wahnt to know how to go about it as is very pricy to get someone to do it for you

pull all the panels off. clean with prepsol - apply dynamat. if youget stuck or want a box of it fire me a pm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2145673
Share on other sites

I've been looking into sound deadening and looking at getting some dynamat xtreme.

Was thinking about putting an amp and sub in but thought I would try sound deadening first and see how it goes.

Found this tutorial on the CAA website..

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19

There's also these ones on the Dynamat website..

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installat...ation_menu.html

If anyone knows of where to get some sound deadening stuff cheaply then please share the wealth :worship:

What are some of the options for deadening the area directly behind the speaker?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86699-dynamat/#findComment-2146886
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...