Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1) From the time I turn on the car, to the time I start the 5m drive, how many seconds do I have?

do it as fast as you can but make sure you are turning the wheel enough....if it doesnt work try turning the wheel a little more....

2) In step 5, do I hold the brake in slightly and heel-toe it foward, or tap it in and out?

tap it in and out

I've put my car into diagnostic mode many times however last week when i tried to put a friends car into it i couldnt so just keep trying!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-178035
Share on other sites

i got aftermarket wheels, hicas light comes on after 10-15 mins of driving over 80km/h, on freeway etc. If i turn the car off, and then on again it goes away. I tried getting it into diagnostic mode a few times, but with no luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-178518
Share on other sites

Originally posted by akeenan

im dont understand what you mean here? if you are saying your rear wheels move when you are not in diagnostic mode just sitting on the spot and you turn your wheel you are wrong!

Skyline 4ws only opreates when you are travelling and not stationary unless you are in diagnostic mode!

And yet it does. Perhaps the light is coming on because of it being unable to determine the speed of the car, and for that reason the wheels move... Who knows until I can get this diagnostics mode working.

Anyway, I'm going on the dawn cruise to the gong tomorrow, so I might be able to get some info on it there...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-178536
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTR King

I wonder if it has anything to do with Engine speed vs Tyre diameter. Maybe it affects the ECU if the inputs r incorrect. Im no electrician but after what b003t said it maybe be worth asking.

Go on laugh at me but im only trying to help :]

Well I'm even less of an electrician. But they're stock wheels and I don't think there's anything special about the tyres - they're still the ones the compliancer dude put on. Aside from an after-market stereo, I believe the speed alert chime has been disabled (unless I go deaf past 110kph :D) but that seems all... Who knows. :D

I think I'll try and get a knowledgable guy / girl to try and get the diagnostics mode working... :

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-178547
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

My Hicas light comes on every time after about 10km, turn car off and go again for 10 and on it comes. Rang the guy who sold it to me who checked with a mechanic mate etc etc. Turns out I have an aftermarket diff - locker apparently, and this is what happens when you mess with the original diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-210682
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hicas on the R33 is fully electric. Topping up the power steer fluid won't do anything for you.

I never had a problem with my hicas and I had aftermarket 17" wheels on. I can't see how that could possible make a difference anyway, but it certainly didn't in my case.

My car was a R33 GTST

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-254933
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by Hicks

Mine comes on sometimes when i've been driving for a while, but if I turn the car off and start it again it goes off. I don't worry about it. Get it checked out if your a bit worried.

I have this problem too..

My problem is that the contact in the steering wheel isn't making contact so the car cant sense that the hicas is there.. or something.

It only happens when I go on the freeway and drive for extended periods of time without turning the wheel too much.

It just resets the computer when you turn it off so the sensors are working again. It was going to cost me $300 to get the part and more for the install. But I'm not too worried. It's not harming the car in anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8673-hicas-light/page/2/#findComment-293270
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...