Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently joined this forum because in the states there are a few good places to get information but I found a lot of people that recommended coming on here. For the last few days I have been digging through a lot of posts on here and have come up with a basic notion but I would like to here from the guys that actually have r34 rb25det with a tiptronic transmission. I got extremely lucky and found a r34 neo rb25det front clip here in the state for a really good price and I am considering getting it but the fact that it is a tiptronic turns me off a little bit. What I wanted to know is just the overall ratings you guys would give this system. I have a room mate that has a rsx with tiptronic and it doesnt seem all that bad, but what worries me is the strength of it. I read that one guy was running about 250kw through his but it eventually blew. I would probably try to get mine up to running around 10psi on the stock turbo just because i dont want to stress out the transmission all that much. Also I was wondering if any more of you guys got that shift kit from the group buy and if that has been proven to strengthen the tiptronic at all. Last but not least I'd just like to know your honest opinions on this motor and tranny, hopefully the guys that have manual transmissions dont come in here and go crazy :P but any information you guys could give me woudl be a great asset. Thanks

woops and I wanted to know for those that have raised the level of boost what type of engine management are you using? I have read that a lot of the products out do not get along with the tiptronic all that much

Edited by 33truballa33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86988-an-american-needs-a-little-advice/
Share on other sites

all 4 wheel sensors? what's this fellow on about?

you might need wheel speed sensors for the traction control butterfly if you want to use it, but you can easily replace the whole throttle body on the neo for something else that doesn't use it - our just don't connect it..

i forgot to state that this will be going into a s13. now what i was wondering is if i could get away with sourcing a rb20/25 tranny bolting that to the motor and using the manual parts that are in my s13 shell to complete the transmission swap or am i just a retard and only scratching the surface? because the s13 shell has everything related to the transmission in it

If you are going manual... You should be able to get by with using the S13 pedals, R34 clutch master cylinder (required for a heavier clutch), the s13 lines and things -in fact you wouldn't be most of the neo parts ones anyhow as they are for the R34 shell.

Where you will have to adapt probably is use the slave cylinder line and slave clyinder from the rb25 gearbox, and also the cross member you may need up to suit S13. And a tailshaft made up as well (would need that for the auto anyhow would say)

You will probably have a few issues of working out which parts of the neo is wiring for the auto transmission, but most often its the auto has the extra crap for wiring, controllers, etc that in a manual is not required at all.

In the tiptronic there is probably more interface between the auto ecu and engine ecu (guessing here), so its possible without the auto controller hooked up in may go into spastic mode... In that case you might have to source a manual R34 ECU.

so i would need the r34 master cylinder and couldnt get away with using one from say an r33? the guy selling me the clip has the full original wiring diagram and extras taht he imported with the neo clip

edit: also if need be i can pick up a power fc to do away with the ecu

Edited by 33truballa33
all 4 wheel sensors? what's this fellow on about?

you might need wheel speed sensors for the traction control butterfly if you want to use it, but you can easily replace the whole throttle body on the neo for something else that doesn't use it - our just don't connect it..

Have you done a swap and have experience with this? What are you supposed to swap the TB with?? What if his front clip doesn't even include the AT computer?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...