Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

adam, you just solved my tyre dillemas... I was trying to figure out what 225/40/18's would look like on 9.5J wheels. They look mint. hehe time to chuck em on the cef.

Ended up getting 215/40/18's on the front 8.5J wheels, and 225/40/18's on the rear 9.5J wheels. just gotta roll the guards (next saturday morning) to tuck the wheels in and the cef's gonna be riding dirty.

That's my mate zac, he was just chilling and checking out my dish.

TonyL, as much as I would like it to be laying rails, you are dead right about road clearance.

I don't really care for scraping over speedbumps and up driveways, but I think it could come down just a little more.

  • 2 weeks later...

lol some of those proton conversions are totally thinking out of the box, esp the R33 and S15 conversion kits. next time i go to malaysia i'm gonna have to go see those nutbags about some fibreglass parts.

i'm actually diggin the r34 front on the ceffy... it does even up the front with the high boot... all the other r34 front conversions use the standard ceffy height for the front, and consequently end up making it droop too low. this one keeps it up high and it looks fuckin awesome. I'd do the front conversion and leave the rest of the car ceffy style tho instead of makin it a wannabe 34. i suppose in MY you could rock it, but in AU that would get you laughed at.

Counting down the start to the race in the second pic....against a truck :D
lol that's how the ceffies roll in QLD... we drag trucks yo.

Haha, the pic was actually taken in Sydney. My mate in his turbo Patrol was revving it up at the lights, all for laughs. Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...