Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I have had this issue with my car ever since I got it.

Whenever i turn around corners wether it be at the lights, or in the back streets, and even doing U-turns, the car starts to shake. Its a wierd kind of shake, kind of like the car is having convulsions or a fit of some type. the harder i go through a corner, the harder the jolts. Im thinking it could be either my suspension, or diff (dont know how it could be that) mabe the all round hight is out. A mate said i might be getting boost spikes through corners, then i asked why only corners? another mate said it could be my ATESSA or HICAS playing up.

This dosn't happen all the time, it mainly happens after i go over the joints on roads.

I have a R32 GTR with JIC magic height and damper adjustable suspension. the damper is on the softest at the moment. (well i thnk it is, it has 1 - 5 marked on the struts and 1 was rally hard, so i set it to 5.)

I have spoken and asked other R32 GTR drivers if it happens to them, and they say theirs is a smooth ride. - some had aftermarket and others had standard suspension.

If anyone has or had a similar problem and fixed it, I'd love to know how to get rid of it. or whats causing it.

Thanks

JUSTIN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87127-may-have-a-suspension-problem/
Share on other sites

well... it is sort of like what Duncan was saying.

If i am to turn sharply from a standing start, i can feel the back end slightly hopping around and hear the wheels slipping on the road.

It sounds kinda cool, but at the same time as im going around the corner, i get a little freeked out, incase the back end slipps out.

I was speeking to a bloke with a GTiR, the 4WD system in them are all mechanical, 50-50 all the time, and he was saying he gets it too. Just courious if there are any other GTR drivers who get a similar feeling.

When i bought the car, the dude didnt say anything about a 2 way lock diff.

lol seriously a tight mechanical diff is brilliant for quick driving or track work, but it is really anti social around town. If you hate it enough I'm sure you can find someone willing to give you $500 + exchange for a standard one

a lot of people sometimes don't know when they have a mech diff, because a worn mech diff will act like an open diff when turning a corner at normal speeds

It's funny, you sometimes can pick up diff housings from wreckers which they think are stock, and you get home and open them up and you have scored a nismo 2-way for like $100

If it really bothers you, PM me and I can organise a replacement stocker, If it's a mech can do cash adjustment. (does anyone know if gtr diffs are same as gts-t?)

Speaking of anti-social around town, Try driving with a welded diff, and see what looks you get from pedestrians when you turn a corner at lights in a shopping strip!

welded diffs usualyl last about 6 months (when drifted regularly) before either the welds break, or the main gear or driveshaft pinion breaks.

skyline axels/driveshafts are very tough, i've never heard of one break with locked diff

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...