Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have recently upgraded my turbo and have my old setup for sale

- GCG highflow stage 2, approx 30k old, excellent condition, $1200 ono *SOLD*

- Trust style high mount manifold with some fairly big cracks starting to appear, modified with T3 flange, also has provision for external gate, repairable $150 ono *SOLD*

- Pirtek braided oils and water lines to suit $100 ono *SOLD*

- HKS adjustable wastegate actuator (original braket and new bracket to suit highmount) $140 ono *SOLD*

This was fitted to an R32 GTSt with rb25det

I'm located in sydney, would prefer sydney buyer so that all items can be inspected prior to sale.

Prefer cash or direct deposit

Attached is a (bad) shot of the installed setup where you cant really see too much. I will post up some pictures of the individual items tomorrow when the lights better (as my camera is a bit ordinary in low light)

Cheers,

Dave

EDIT: Added more pics

EDIT: Prices dropped

EDIT: All sold

post-2863-1126355904.jpg

post-2863-1126388275.jpg

post-2863-1126388302.jpg

post-2863-1126388323.jpg

post-2863-1126388345.jpg

post-2863-1126388368.jpg

post-2863-1126388389.jpg

post-2863-1126388409.jpg

post-2863-1126388434.jpg

post-2863-1126388463.jpg

Edited by BHDave

Sorry Nismo,i dont know if the lines will fit a 3540.

The oil and water fittings at the turbo are different sizes (the close up shot shows an oil and water fitting at the turbo as well as the barbed fitting that connects at the back of the head).

Cheers,

Dave

Gday abcent,

It's one of GCG's early stage 2 highflows rated at 480hp as opposed to the stage 1 which is 450. Basically its a fully rebuilt stock rb25 turbo with larger steel wheels, new cartridge and machined housings. I don't know the exact specs of the wheels or final a/r ratios

I only ever saw 199rwkw with this turbo on 12psi and about 10.5:1 A/F ratios. I later tidied up the a/f ratios bringing them back to about 12:1 and ran 14psi which felt alot quicker but never had it back on the dyno with this setup so can't say what sort of power it was making when the turbo came off.

Cheers

Dave

ah....thanks....sounds like the hi-flow I already have (which i also dont know the specs of but have the same description)...

so guess i'll keep looking for my upgrade...

if it helps the sale at all my hi-flow has managed 248rwkw at autosalon this year on 19psi

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...