Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i dont have dyno info,

but dont put on a pod without a heat shield, you will definately lose power if its judt ditting there in the hot engine bay.

stock airbox with panel filter and cold air pickup pipe is usually the most effective value for money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-1576497
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
is there a difference b/n the gtst and the gtr stock box? in the r33 especially.

no. I run over 250rwkw.

Wack in a hi-flow panel filter and u will be set. I was convinced that unless u have a sealed box...ur just wasting time. Mine was loud and annoying...also a cop magent...stock box is quiet...and stealth.

I use a Trust Panel filter...works a treat. Dunno how much they cost but a K&N would also be fine.

Although I'm designing a new snorkel for the stock box...we be finished in a few weeks...will post pics. But its runnign fine as is right now.

KJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820094
Share on other sites

Hi there,

I did it on the dyno and absolutely NO difference. 254 rwkw power runs - stock airbox with K&N flat panel filter one run, then we removed the top of the airbox and flat panel filter so NO RESTRICTION WHATSOEVER and the same 254 rwkw power output - both runs done with the BONNET UP so no temp differences either.

The turbo is 2835pros kit so has fabricated aluminium turbo intake pipe which mates up with the stock airbox.

Around these power levels pods are a waste of time/money unless you like to hear the turbo/blow off valve - and in a lot of cases poeple will see a decrease in power due to the engine sucking hotter air.

Cheers

Edited by gtst25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820218
Share on other sites

it would be ok having the pod sitting behind the front bar low to the ground? thats what i got and it's barely even dirty after 1 year, then again i never travel on dirt/gravel/sand roads, the only thing i do is avoid puddles or where theres to much water build up on the road. Sometimes the sounds gets very annoying and I wish i still had my airbox

Edited by Hulk1010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820279
Share on other sites

it would be even better having the open top type filters sticking low and just behind one of your front bar slots. In a S2 R33 with front bar (stock) after doing FMIC it is possible.

people have had issues with direct mount pods like this...too much air at higher speeds. They needed to baffel it to stop issues at 80+ kmph.

That being said..the gain ur gonna get..hmm not too much...stick with stock, get a decent filter, protect ur engine from crap and avoid another defect, oh an piss of they stupid whoosh sound..lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820493
Share on other sites

thats good to hear. especially as i've just ordered a apexi panel through kudos motorsports:P .

always wondered if its possible to do a CAI on the stock box. is this what your trying to achieve chris? any one else done this? pics would indeed be helpful :no:

andz 69: i guess it dependes on how much power they're running (which i havent a clue about). we are talking performance benefits at power levels of bout 200-300kws though

Edited by Basti
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820527
Share on other sites

I pulled off the pods and got a hold of an airbox and k&n filter simply because,

it's my daily driver (don't want to risk defect),

Pods are illegal in NSW and can't be engineered unless fully enclosed(too much stuffing around),

heatsoak in traffic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820530
Share on other sites

personally I'm not convinced of the pod style installs where they just sit in the bay. I have done this to a few cars an recently just returned them to stock which better filters and intake pipes.

As long as an air filter and box is properly sized for an application, the lost airflow will be very minimal. I haves een some1 do actual testing but cant find the link.

If ur worried build a new lid for ur stock box and feed more air into it with a new snorkel...looks stock. In fact thats what I'm doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820576
Share on other sites

My 2 cents

1. Air Box fanboy here....just look at the mines GTR

2. Pods are really only useful IMO when there isnt room for an airbox or it isnt suitable for plumbing.

3. I fail to see how a pod on a intercooled car will effect the inlet temps inside the cylinders....maybe a poofteenth of a degree once its passed through the intercooler? I can understand sucking in 15 degree air compared to 50 degree air will differentiate as the intercooler can only do so much in the amount of time it has an air molecule going through it, but with the forward acceleration of the car colder air from infront of the car should go into the pod, and I doubt that a majority of the hot air from the engine bay will get into the pod as it will most likely go out the top of the engine bay and over your window / into your vents etc....

the air that actually hits parts of the motor etc will bounce proportionally to the parts it hits.....

Therefore I fail to see air that is being slammed into the front of a vehicle travelling at XXX km/h when it has little velocity before it hits the car will have less of a chance to get into your air intake than the air that is rushing to the back of your engine bay and out of any gap it can find (as mentioned between ur bonnet etc)

my 2 cents of keyboard warrioring at 1.30am :no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87303-airbox-vs-pod/#findComment-2820622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...