Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a look at the SEVS lsit today (I think it's the current one, not sure if it will change as of May 8th) and it looks as though pretty much ALL R-34's will be eligible to import.

That includes the RB25DE atmo and even the RB20DE...

The link is here.

Just click on the second-last option on the left of the page: "Register of Specialist and Enthusiast Vehicles"

Also, if you have time, check out the link above that ("SEVS Information" - the third-last option) and go through the bulletins towards the bottom of that page. Lots of reading, but an insight into what they're trying to do.

Either way, it sucks in my opinion. Why restrict the number of cars coming into the country, when they serve the purpose of:

- satisfying a market not already catered to;

- supporting a lot of new or fairly-recently established businesses;

- protecting the jobs of the people employed in these businesses; etc.

They state in the first bulletin that the purpose is to ensure that quality cars are coming into the country, which is fair enough if that was their only agenda.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who thinks that it's more of a money-making scheme and/or a pandering to the requests of the bigger local car-makers. I think that's including Toyota, Nissan and Mitsubishi - who were obviously not game enough to cater to the market in the first place, and are now jealous that they've missed their opportunity and/or are losing sales to the "Grey Import" dealers and importers. I've also heard that parties responsible for implementing the SEVS rulings have actually clearly stated that they are deliberately out to reduce or shut down the industry bracket...

Oh well, time will tell.

I'm going to go through all the bulletins and see where it seems to be leading us.

Originally posted by blukie

I'm interested in purchasing a R34 4 door

Here is a pretty cheap one Blukie, in tiptronic form.

For sale: RARE 1998 R34 GT-T Turbo, 4-DOOR, Silver, Auto, $23,900 plus tyres and ORC's. This is available via Prestige Motorsport in Perth [hope you dont mind Geoff!]

Contact:

Geoff Risbey

Manager

Prestige Motorsport

0418 944 253

www.prestigemotorsport.com.au

At your service Mon to Sat from 9am to 6pm WST

Thankyou all for your replies. NISMO R34 thanks for the example you spotted. I have spoken to Geoff breifly about this car and yes it will be $7000.00 to comply this car.

Does anyone know why ????

1 reason I got from Geoff was that the front headlights have to be replaced because the projector headlamps do not comply. So basically if you purchase an R34, I believe that you pay someone to downgrade your headlamps, you pay labour, pay for the down graded headlamps and they don't even give U back the originals.

You purchase the car, I believe you have the right the keep what comes with it.

I really, really want an R34 4 door, but can't justify paying someone to "downgrade the car" . That's stupidity.

Well it looks like it's back to HSV for me.

SEVS rules SUCK.

The 2 door is generally the same in regards to the lights - if you are lucky you may get to keep the originals :P

Originally posted by blukie

Thankyou all for your replies. NISMO R34 thanks for the example you spotted. I have spoken to Geoff breifly about this car and yes it will be $7000.00 to comply this car. 

Does anyone know why ????

1 reason I got from Geoff was that the front headlights have to be replaced because the projector headlamps do not comply. So basically if you purchase an R34, I believe that you pay someone to downgrade your headlamps, you pay labour, pay for the down graded headlamps and they don't even give U back the originals. 

You purchase the car, I believe you have the right the keep what comes with it. 

I really, really want an R34 4 door, but can't justify paying someone to "downgrade the car" . That's stupidity.

Well it looks like it's back to HSV for me. 

SEVS rules SUCK.

it cause therew is only two dudes in australia who can do it for you

one in sydney

and one of these people are the only people in aust that do the headlight conversions leaglly.

if you need one done give us a bell cause i can hook you up for a cheaper price

pete

0409226626

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...