Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I'm wondering if you can easily/visually spot a turbo that is nearing the end of its life. I'm pulling the turbos off at Christmas to do a few things but not sure what to look for?

Is there any way to tell how much life is left in a ceramic wheeled turbo?

The reason I ask is that I'm not out for uber power, repainting the car atm so cannot afford 2860's, and every week you see a pair of R32 for $400 or thereabouts.

Am I asking for trouble? Once my wallet recovers from the painting/sill repairs I'll start saving for turbos but that's easily 12 months away.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87363-buying-used-bnr32-stock-turbos/
Share on other sites

I don't think you should. As you'll soon find out its not that fun/easy a job, so you only really want to do it once and save yourself the trouble of doing it twice, so once you've ready find a set of good condition turbos to go on (I'd suggest at least used N1s); my thoughts!

I don't think you should. As you'll soon find out its not that fun/easy a job, so you only really want to do it once and save yourself the trouble of doing it twice, so once you've ready find a set of good condition turbos to go on (I'd suggest at least used N1s); my thoughts!

Yes, its a super annoying job. Took me five days the last time I pulled them off and reinstalled (well, it was my first time ;)). Its not something you should do unless you need too (or have some reason: i.e. new turbos). I think you'll be pissed off at the lengths you will have to go to only to reinstall stock items :)

Sooooo.. if your going to do it, I would at the very least change the dump pipes and if you can afford it, put some steelwheeled ball bearing turbos on.

My understanding is you can give them a reasonable check over by look/touch -- i.e. check the shaft for play, spin the wheel, look for excessive oil/dirt residue, etc -- but if you want a definitive answer, you need a float gauge (or a turbo shop).

The reason i charge 16hrs min. to do this job......is because it takes that long.....ive done about 5 of these twin low-mount upgrades/conversions and you dont get it done much quicker than that.

16 hours to R+R low mount turbos ? Are you kidding Paul ?

It can be done in 8 hours easy by someone experienced and with the right tools .

Guest DIRTgarage
16 hours to R+R low mount turbos ?  Are you kidding Paul ?

It can be done in 8 hours easy by someone experienced and with the right tools .

have you actually done it???? its what nissan qoute too!

very experienced and have all the right tools....try it yourself before posting another uneducated comment!

IIRC, John from UAS mentioned its about a 16hr job for them too.

I reakon a home mechanic could probably do it in about 3 days if you have a decent set of tools and somewhere to do it. I had to pull it all apart on a sloped driveway without access to stands: my legs killed for days :D

Some of the highlights include the rear heatshield not wanting to come off or go back on; the nearly impossible to get too manifold nuts; the front turbo/manifold fouling on the aircon; the million times I dropped the copper washers. I could go on and on.... I was deeply scarred by the event :)

The good news is once the front turbo is off, it gets a lot easier. For the home mechanic, its also one of those jobs where it could go quite quickly if your lucky or you could spend 3 hours trying to get one nut undone.

I have to do it all again shortly. If I have time, I'll document it properly.

have you actually done it???? its what nissan qoute too!

very experienced and have all the right tools....try it yourself before posting another uneducated comment!

I have done it several times mate ....... not an uneducated comment at all .

The last time i did it was a few months ago .

I have heard of people having them swaped for as little as $450 , mind you i wouldnt do it for that , but most will do it for $600-800 .

It takes less than 16 hours to R+R and engine on a GTR .

Guest DIRTgarage
I have done it several times mate ....... not an uneducated comment at all .

The last time i did it was a few months ago .

I have heard of people having them swaped for as little as $450 , mind you i wouldnt do it for that , but most will do it for $600-800 .

It takes less than 16 hours to R+R and engine on a GTR .

sweet...next time ive got a cust requiring an upgrade ill send them too you and quote your price. We charge $60 an hour labour, so your quote is 10-13 hours....thats pretty close to the 16 i quote so not such a laughable statement NOW is it Jerry.....We quote $960 and dont think its unreasonable.....covers our ass for any little problems.

Edited by DIRTgarage
sweet...next time ive got a cust requiring an upgrade ill send them too you and quote your price. We charge $60 an hour labour, so your quote is 10-13 hours....thats pretty close to the 16 i quote so not such a laughable statement NOW is it Jerry.....We quote $960 and dont think its unreasonable.....covers our ass for any little problems.

Just a couple of things Paul .

First i dont have a workshop these days so i dont do work for anyone but still do all my own work at home . The other thing is i didnt comment on how much you charge , i only commented on the 16 hours you said it takes you to R+R the turbos and i said , someone with experience and the right tools should do it in 8 hours max .

On your hourly rate of $ 60 its a bargain , i wouldnt do it for that if i still had a workshop , $ 80 is more like the mark .

So yea i thought 16 hours is a bit over the top when you can R+R the engine for that time ....

Guest DIRTgarage
Just a couple of things Paul .

First i dont have a workshop these days so i dont do work for anyone but still do all my own work at home . The other thing is i didnt comment on how much you charge , i only commented on the 16 hours you said it takes you to R+R the turbos and i said , someone with experience and the right tools should do it in 8 hours max .

On your hourly rate of $ 60 its a bargain , i wouldnt do it for that if i still had a workshop , $ 80 is more like the mark .

So yea i thought 16 hours is a bit over the top when you can R+R the engine for that time ....

OK thats fine, just thought you were implying that i rip our customers off....def. not the case....$960 for the quality of work we do is a bargain in my eyes. All our customers have all said how neat and high standard our work is ...and never have we had a problem with our pricing arrangemments. I didn't once say it took me 16hrs to do the job. We allow/quote 16 hrs...sometimes it doesn't take that....sometimes it does.....but to run a sucessful outfit you dont burn your fingers for the sake of undercutting some bodgey-ass.

we clear??

Edited by DIRTgarage

i will do it in 40 hours but that's at a rate of two beers per hour. i think that's fair...oh and a kebab at the end thanks.

btw i am in no way to be held responsible if the turbos either cannot be removed, or refitted. not my fault.

OK thats fine, just thought you were implying that i rip our customers off....def. not the case....$960 for the quality of work we do is a bargain in my eyes. All our customers have all said how neat and high standard our work is ...and never have we had a problem with our pricing arrangemments. I didn't once say it took me 16hrs to do the job. We allow/quote 16 hrs...sometimes it doesn't take that....sometimes it does.....but to run a sucessful outfit you dont burn your fingers for the sake of undercutting some bodgey-ass.

we clear??

Mate i never said anything about what you charge i had a very successfull business for many years and i know the costs of running one .

I just commented on the time you said it takes ( i hope we understand each other now ) and on the fact that you commented on me not knowing how long it takes because i have never done it before and i was giving an uneducated comment .

This is what you said in the above thead ,

" The reason i charge 16hrs min. to do this job......is because it takes that long.....ive done about 5 of these twin low-mount upgrades/conversions and you dont get it done much quicker than that "

You said because it takes that long ( 16 hours ) , well it does not take 16 hours for an experienced person to do it . Thats all i said all along ....it takes half that max .

As far as you over or under charging your customers it has nothing to do with this or me , you charge whatever you want , it has nothing to do with me , its between you and yours mate .

Jeez sounds like DIRTgarage has a big chip on their shoulder, getting all defensive and rude, after someone says they can do the same job in half the time. Its ok that someone is faster than you, DIRTgarage, no need for such an attitude.

And on this topic, i know wrxhoon can swap gtr turbos in 8 hours, and has done so several times, so i would not expect an experienced workshop to take longer.

So cowie165 leave them on, and if you do take them off, put back on new turbos because either way 8 hours is a long time to do something which is not really necessary.

Why not just keep your turbos until you are ready to upgrade .

I'm just concerned they are going to cause problems. They seem to be the weakest link when it comes to engines stuffing out. Repairs and paint have cleaned me out and then some so I'm keen to preserve what life is left in my *genuine :lol: * 70,000km R32 motor. Had I the funds I would have bought your turbos! ;)

i will do it in 40 hours but that's at a rate of two beers per hour. i think that's fair...oh and a kebab at the end thanks.

btw i am in no way to be held responsible if the turbos either cannot be removed, or refitted. not my fault.

Richard your quote sounds great. As you near the eighty beer mark does your work get better or worse? And do you provide your own ambulance?

So little love in the room ;)  Whether its 8 or 16 hours is rather irrelevant to cowie165 if he is doing the work himself for the first time...

I'm sorry things got messy guys.

My time is essentially unlimited however my finances are quite finite. I'm swapping the dump pipes anyway (already bought those) and was looking for any pointers on spotting a shagged turbo or one at the end of its life. I was hoping to then swap it for another (as they're so cheap) to keep the motor shipshape until I can afford N1's.

Is shaft play all you can look for? Can a turbo specialist do much without pulling it apart? (And offering a steel-wheel rebuild for $$)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...