Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Bought New Car And Need A Cheap/free Deck :)


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im appealing to your generous side :D

I just picked up this badboy to get to work and home during the week (skyline + fuel prices + 100kms a day = $$) Still got the skyline but im trying to only drive that on the weekends as im sure many of you do. Problem is its got a crappy old stereo and 1 speaker, yes one speaker.

Just wondering if anyone has an old deck and/or speakers gathering dust in their shed that they want to part with. Doesnt have to be flash, a tape deck with a digital display would be unbelievable :D

PS.. yes that is the radio and 'speaker' on the dash, it was held there in place with double sided tape but thats come off so it kinda just moves around up there

Cheers,

damo

post-10683-1126534215.jpg

post-10683-1126534272.jpg

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks again Mitchy. If anyones got a set of old 6x9s they want to part with too :D

Shi t yeh. Its so fun to drive. Best fun driving ive had in years. You get some wierd looks from people, like.. "Damn thats an ugly car." To get an idea on how rediculous it looks. Im about 6'3 and 100kgs, my mate is about 6'4 and about 125kgs and we were driving down the road, it would of looked like that mitsubishi ad with the two sumos in the front seat driving down to get pizza.

Heres the specs:

1983 Suzuki Carry Van

upgraded 970cc 4cyl engine from a 'Super' carry van from a 1989 model which puts out between 17kw-25kw depending on engine mods, will post dyno soon (originally came with 3cyl 800cc but that wasnt fast enough)

12 inch steel rims (155x55x12 tyres)

Sun roof (barely but its there check the photos)

tape deck and 1 speaker mounted with double sided tape on the dash

Car runs pretty good, other than it blows a little smoke. Also features stealth engine placement, underneath the passenger seat, the cops cant yellow it if they cant find it ! It makes you appreciate how good a skyline is tho :D

I checked the plugs and found out they used 3 plugs of one sort and 1 of another sort, which were all wrong for the engine anyway. So i went to repco and got myself a set of the ones they should have for the engine and it runs like a dream.. with all 4 cyl.

PS. If everyone chips in a couple of bucks, ill take it down the drags. I reckon id probably get in the high 27s

According to Suzuki's specs on the engine, its actually 35HP standard from the factory (at flywheel i would assume after driving it)

post-10683-1126567720.jpg

post-10683-1126567750.jpg

One word describes that car - SICK!!

I wouldn't go down to the drags to see that thing do a pass but rather do a burnout. Hah while your at it put it in the donut pit. I'll pitch in some tyres for it :lol:

Edited by Baz

You better not be knocking it :D

It was a bit out of control today. Wet roads + 35hp = no traction (might of been the fact that the tyres were dry as a mother tho) The wind coming back from freo nearly threw me off stock rd :rolleyes:

It does spin the wheels, but it needs a bit of coaxing to get her going.

may i ask how much u bought if for?

i a student and cant afford to run my r33, im fully independent and parents aint babying me no more :D

Centerlink just aint good enough for me anymore, been car pulling with mates to uni, and im living of 50 bux each week LOL.

petrol is really killing us all. nice car bro, ill join u in the Bomb brothers.

a car like that could do with some serious lowering :D

i've got a pair of Boss 6x9s if you want them, quickly wanting to get rid of them cos it's taking up space in my room + moving house soon. It's better than going in the bin cos that's what'll probably end up in anyway :rolleyes:

Feel the wrath of my bunky :P

Tigeryas im keen for the 6x9s, ill take em off ya hands for sure. PM SENT, im heading to balcatta tomorrow to pickup from Mitchy, so tomorrow would be good for me, but whenever is cool for you.

Philta, the car was advertised for $550, i took it for a test drive and offered him $500 and he said ok. Then we were talking about transfer and stuff, and he goes "actually buddy, make it $450" SCORE!

Its good cos now my car isnt just used to get to work and back and i can do more work to it. The bumper needs to be fixed, heaps of little carpark scratches and im in the need for a big ass turbo + power fc :)

Phobic, im thinking about chopping the springs, but that might make it even bunkier to drive. I nearly got blown off stock rd today on the way back from fremantle, but other than that..

There's a term called Over capitalizing on investment :P

Im 'thinking' of down the track having a mobile jukebox in the back, that i can have in there and rock up to a party, drive it round the back and pull it out on rollers to the back hatch. But who knows how long my interest will last, at the moment, its just good not having to pay $17 a day in petrol (let alone tyres and wear and tear) to get to work and back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...