Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:t4 turbo

Location:sydney

Item Condition:Brand new, never fitted

Reason for Selling:cant afford to fit. need** a t3 turbo instead.

Price and Payment Conditions:$1200 ono pick up or can send interstate

Extra Info:ar .60

Contact Details:[email protected]

pics

myturbo3yx.jpg

myturbo31tt.jpg

myturbo25ei.jpg

Edited by gwaping2k
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87576-garrett-big-t4-turbo/
Share on other sites

I am willing to swap with vgc used GT2530 with T3 flange or something similar. I need a direct bolt on. Obviously i cant afford to spend anymore money to custom fit this T4.

cheers guys :P

heres another pic

This is a genuine garrett turbocharger, not some cheap immitation!

Any offers will be considered :D cmon ppl dont be shy, i may even interested with a apexi power fc with controller! anything with the same value as my turbo :rolleyes:

picture1390fe.jpg

picture1408gc.jpg

picture1418uc.jpg

hey does that mean that this turbo does not need anything. like what i mean is that it has all the parts i need to put it straight onto a gts non turbo??? or do i need more stuff.

mate u need more than just the above turbo to fit this in....since your car is non turbo, you will need a manifold,wastegate,intercooler etc....

So the answer is NO this is not a straight bolt on to a NON TURBO sky :)

pm replied :(

any other offers??? cmon ppl, this is a good deal, wont be disappointed.

only if i have money to bolt this in :unsure:

Edited by gwaping2k

out of curiosity is this a turbo that comes stock wit r33 cos i want to upgrade the turbo on a r31 rb20det but just to a stock 33 turbo cos i have heard that the rb20 turbo (t3 i think) cant handle more than 8 psi safely but the 33 turbo can handle 1bar and is worth the conversion btw if it inst the stock 33 turbo what is the name of the 33 turbo

thanks for the help

out of curiosity is this a turbo that comes stock wit r33 cos i want to upgrade the turbo on a r31 rb20det but just to a stock 33 turbo cos i have heard that the rb20 turbo (t3 i think) cant handle more than 8 psi safely but the 33 turbo can handle 1bar and is worth the conversion btw if it inst the stock 33 turbo what is the name of the 33 turbo

thanks for the help

Hi Mate, i dont really know much about RB20 turbo, but the R33 turbo has the same flange as the RB20 which is t3...(as far as i know) i dont know what the r33 stock turbo is called, but its a t3 type with .ar50 on compressor, not sure about the exhaust housing (try searching the forum in regards to that) My stock turbo will be on sale once i get a t3 turbo replacement for this garrett, as i simply wants a bolt on job.

ScarifieR32- My mech told me it will not be too laggy, it will boost from 3500rpm or 4000rpm from usually approx 2200 rpm(from my stock turbo) i would put this in my r33 if i have the extra money to buy manifold, wastegate,vband etc..but i dont ;)

thanks heaps can ur 33 turbo hold a bar of boost safely cos thats all i really want

when u r selling it let me no thanks

hi mate, my turbo is only boosted to 12psi, no higher.

Any takers at all? new price now $950!

cmon ppl, this is cheap ass :O

exactly...lag city mate...i got a .84 rear housing on mine and its on a rb25..full boost doenst kick in till 5200rpm... and yours is bigger..so i would think like no boost in first gear lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...