Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get a R31. is right in between cheap comman car and something faster.

They go alright actually, run 16s near stock. Cheap as, parts cheap as, easy to work on, heaps of info, driftable with some work, all rb engines fit..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87680-first-car/page/2/#findComment-1592758
Share on other sites

The reason so many people like Twin Cam Rollas is because they're so damn sweet.

My little brother used to have one and I loved it. With a 7700rpm redline they love to be abused and if you get the revs right, you won't have any problems beating "vl's and shit".

He took out many cars far more powerful than him partially due to skill and partially due to the opponent not knowing their full potential.

This was the AE82 variety. If I was ever after a small car, it'd be an AE82 Twin Cam for sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87680-first-car/page/2/#findComment-1592919
Share on other sites

I think they only came with one engine (rb30de). Make sure its not a pintara, they look similar. thats the 3.0ltr OHC straight 6 from the vl commo.

Rollas are pretty subjective. The 4age is a solid little engine so if its been owned by a grandma it could be fine at 250,000 but if its been in japan and been given a hard life it might be near dead at 150,000.

Jap ks are double our ks in my opinion. They drive shorter runs, harder. No long roads.

get a compression test done to be sure.

Edited by Boostzor
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87680-first-car/page/2/#findComment-1594861
Share on other sites

Local spec R31 skylines had the RB30e. 3l 6cyl, makes about 115 at the fly. good motor with quite alot of potential.

There was also the R31 pintara, which is the same car apart from the driveline. it had the ca20, a n/a 4cyl 2l. you can see its different fomr the skylines by its grille (amongst other things).

Imports had a few different engines, but mostly the redtop Rb20.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87680-first-car/page/2/#findComment-1595585
Share on other sites

You can get a Passage or coupe HR31 (import R31) for under $10k with a turbo engine..

With some work, they go as hard as most other imports, and something a little bit different.

Parts may be a bit difficult to track down, but are available.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87680-first-car/page/2/#findComment-1596062
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...