Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

been searching around looking at all the hicas issues, none seem to be the same as mine although probably have the same soloution.

when im driving at 50km/h or so and jump on it the 4WS kicks in and the rears send me me in an awkward direction but the hicas light doesnt come on.

now this has only started happening since the aftermarket steering wheel.

im trying to get around this without a lock bar.

now 1 more point....

the original hicas plug has 2 contact point behind the original that it plugs into but i only have one plugged in, is it as simple as connecting the other contact??

any thoughts

thanks

been searching around looking at all the hicas issues, none seem to be the same as mine although probably have the same soloution.

when im driving at 50km/h or so and jump on it the 4WS kicks in and the rears send me me in an awkward direction but the hicas light doesnt come on.

now this has only started happening since the aftermarket steering wheel.

im trying to get around this without a lock bar.

now 1 more point....

the original hicas plug has 2 contact point behind the original that it plugs into but i only have one plugged in, is it as simple as connecting the other contact??

any thoughts

thanks

someone i know had exact same thing happen but they had the hicas light come on also. if you don't have a proper hicas type boss kit then either buy one and fit or a proffessional or cluey person may be able to rig it up so it works..... it is the boss and wire/sensor thingys that would be causing the issue.

I had exactly the same problem.

my solution was to unplug it.

there are 2 plugs for the hicas.

they are under the parcel tray.

when you disconnect one, the light stays on..

you don't want that one.

disconnect the other one and HICAS no longer works and you don't go wobbling all over the place.

people told me over and over that this is not right and it won't stay in one place and shit.

but it did.

if you go in the boot, if I recall, the plugs are closer to the right speaker..

your problem is that it's not the correct boss for your car. some have the sensor 'lugs' in the 12 and 6 position some have them in the 2 and 7 position. have a look at your factory wheel and see which one you have. hicas light should not come on at all if it's working properly.

your problem is that it's not the correct boss for your car. some have the sensor 'lugs' in the 12 and 6 position some have them in the 2 and 7 position. have a look at your factory wheel and see which one you have. hicas light should not come on at all if it's working properly.

thats what i wanted to know!!

thanks mate ill check it out tonight!!

thats what i wanted to know!!

thanks mate ill check it out tonight!!

What year is your car? Its most likely meant to have the lugs at 2 and 8 or there abouts. If its a later model (late-92/93 through 94) it may have them at 12 and 6.

But as Richard said, the best way is to grab the OEM wheel and lineup the dot on the wheel with the dot on the spline and see where the lugs are meant to fit.

its a 93

has got the leather wheel like a gtr

i didnt notice any dots

and what spline??

There should be a dot on the steering wheel where it joins the column, and a dot on the end of the the steering shaft/spline (close to the edge) that emerges from the column (and that the wheel attaches too). Obviously you line the two dots up and rotate the HICAS prongs so they fall into the holes on the wheel.

Does that make sense (sorry, tired, not explain well :blink:).

There should be a dot on the steering wheel where it joins the column, and a dot on the end of the the steering shaft/spline (close to the edge) that emerges from the column (and that the wheel attaches too).  Obviously you line the two dots up and rotate the HICAS prongs so they fall into the holes on the wheel. 

Does that make sense (sorry, tired, not explain well :blink:).

k now i get it

i fiddled with the hicas prongs before i put the wheel on

ill take a closer look tonight

thanks for the info!

managed to fix it, thanks for those tips lwells!!

basically did what u said, took it off aligned the stocker back up, then put the bosskit on then the steering wheel...

did 100km last night....no wobble....no light

thanks

managed to fix it, thanks for those tips lwells!!

basically did what u said, took it off aligned the stocker back up, then put the bosskit on then the steering wheel...

did 100km last night....no wobble....no light

thanks

No worries. Nice to see its sorted :( Out of interest, were the HICAS prongs meant to be at 12 and 6 or 2 and 8?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...