Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

been searching around looking at all the hicas issues, none seem to be the same as mine although probably have the same soloution.

when im driving at 50km/h or so and jump on it the 4WS kicks in and the rears send me me in an awkward direction but the hicas light doesnt come on.

now this has only started happening since the aftermarket steering wheel.

im trying to get around this without a lock bar.

now 1 more point....

the original hicas plug has 2 contact point behind the original that it plugs into but i only have one plugged in, is it as simple as connecting the other contact??

any thoughts

thanks

been searching around looking at all the hicas issues, none seem to be the same as mine although probably have the same soloution.

when im driving at 50km/h or so and jump on it the 4WS kicks in and the rears send me me in an awkward direction but the hicas light doesnt come on.

now this has only started happening since the aftermarket steering wheel.

im trying to get around this without a lock bar.

now 1 more point....

the original hicas plug has 2 contact point behind the original that it plugs into but i only have one plugged in, is it as simple as connecting the other contact??

any thoughts

thanks

someone i know had exact same thing happen but they had the hicas light come on also. if you don't have a proper hicas type boss kit then either buy one and fit or a proffessional or cluey person may be able to rig it up so it works..... it is the boss and wire/sensor thingys that would be causing the issue.

I had exactly the same problem.

my solution was to unplug it.

there are 2 plugs for the hicas.

they are under the parcel tray.

when you disconnect one, the light stays on..

you don't want that one.

disconnect the other one and HICAS no longer works and you don't go wobbling all over the place.

people told me over and over that this is not right and it won't stay in one place and shit.

but it did.

if you go in the boot, if I recall, the plugs are closer to the right speaker..

your problem is that it's not the correct boss for your car. some have the sensor 'lugs' in the 12 and 6 position some have them in the 2 and 7 position. have a look at your factory wheel and see which one you have. hicas light should not come on at all if it's working properly.

your problem is that it's not the correct boss for your car. some have the sensor 'lugs' in the 12 and 6 position some have them in the 2 and 7 position. have a look at your factory wheel and see which one you have. hicas light should not come on at all if it's working properly.

thats what i wanted to know!!

thanks mate ill check it out tonight!!

thats what i wanted to know!!

thanks mate ill check it out tonight!!

What year is your car? Its most likely meant to have the lugs at 2 and 8 or there abouts. If its a later model (late-92/93 through 94) it may have them at 12 and 6.

But as Richard said, the best way is to grab the OEM wheel and lineup the dot on the wheel with the dot on the spline and see where the lugs are meant to fit.

its a 93

has got the leather wheel like a gtr

i didnt notice any dots

and what spline??

There should be a dot on the steering wheel where it joins the column, and a dot on the end of the the steering shaft/spline (close to the edge) that emerges from the column (and that the wheel attaches too). Obviously you line the two dots up and rotate the HICAS prongs so they fall into the holes on the wheel.

Does that make sense (sorry, tired, not explain well :blink:).

There should be a dot on the steering wheel where it joins the column, and a dot on the end of the the steering shaft/spline (close to the edge) that emerges from the column (and that the wheel attaches too).  Obviously you line the two dots up and rotate the HICAS prongs so they fall into the holes on the wheel. 

Does that make sense (sorry, tired, not explain well :blink:).

k now i get it

i fiddled with the hicas prongs before i put the wheel on

ill take a closer look tonight

thanks for the info!

managed to fix it, thanks for those tips lwells!!

basically did what u said, took it off aligned the stocker back up, then put the bosskit on then the steering wheel...

did 100km last night....no wobble....no light

thanks

managed to fix it, thanks for those tips lwells!!

basically did what u said, took it off aligned the stocker back up, then put the bosskit on then the steering wheel...

did 100km last night....no wobble....no light

thanks

No worries. Nice to see its sorted :( Out of interest, were the HICAS prongs meant to be at 12 and 6 or 2 and 8?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...