Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately its not the way it is.

Note all the ppls that have gone to a pfc and gone. 'wow' the extra mid range power.

I would kill to have a good look at a rb20det or rb25det stock ecu's ignition map.

Alright let just say everything else is the same (engine, mods, drivers,...) and you put 2 cars agaisnt each other, one SAFC and the other PFC, which one would win on 1/4 mile?

Unfortunately its not the way it is.

Note all the ppls that have gone to a pfc and gone. 'wow' the extra mid range power.

I would kill to have a good look at a rb20det or rb25det stock ecu's ignition map.

This do? rb20det.. I've got a couple of people that I need knocked off, let me know when you're available :P

post-1332-1127114250.gif

post-1332-1127114526.gif

Ok - look at this graph I ripped from the stagea section. THis guy used the SAFC style device to tune (A jaycar version) - he was able to get good AFR the whole way. If you were using PFC you wouldn't get that much better AFR control and the only real other thing governing power is the Ignition timing which I would imagine is close to as far advanced as you would want....

Where could PFC benefit you here then???

post-11777-1127126223.jpg

As you lower the afm signal to lean out the car it runs more ignition timing. Not good for a reliable motor you want to zip around the local track or on a 30-40degree day.

The dyno graph you posted I think is a bad example.

Look at that nasty arsed power dip smack in the middle. :D

I guess the bottom line is about the money, how much u wanna spend on mods. Obviously if you can afford PFC then it would definitely be worth it. However for those are on a budget and not after massive power, a SAFC give excellent value for money, plus that fancy blue LCD to impress da chics :D

Ben, sure the SAFC can provide a straight AFR curve/line throughout the whole rev-range but I haven't noticed anyone here stating how 12 points of adjustment (SAFC) is alot less compared to the 20x20 map of PFC.

With the 20x20 map, usually TPS vs. RPM, you have much MUCH more potential in tuning the car. This doesn't mean the car will only go good on WOT but you'll also have control over cruise conditions, slightly accelerating etc.

But in regards to mods, mild mods such as boost, full exhaust, IC, CAI - SAFC/E-Manage will be a more suitable choice, although there should still be much to gain if you do go PFC.

Ben1981

You can't advance the ignition timing with a SAFC.

Ignition timing is where the power is.

I went from 165 rwkw to 200 rwkw with a powerFC and made much much much more power EVERYWHERE.

Including right at the bottom.

Even if the powerFC costs $1000 compared to $400 for the SAFC, the value for money is still more better with the PFC.

Oh, and to think that you will only ever need the SAFC cos you aren't going to mod you car any further..... Well, that's just silly talk :)

I once thought that, and now I'm chasing 260 rwkw with my next mod.

Stoopid Cars.

If you are on the boarderline of detonation and at 12:1 AFR for the whole rev band then you won't gain by having a PFC. 

Apart from the fact that you have a signifigantly larger amount of load points :O

PFC tune and get a great result as opposed to a reasonable one (saf-c)

The dyno graph you posted I think is a bad example.

Look at that nasty arsed power dip smack in the middle. :)

indeed :)

True it is a compromise - but that dip in the power curve mightn't be fixed by PFC either.

Umm, its the mid-range dip that everyone has come across.

Search around for dyno graphs and you'll find lots with the "dip"

It will definately be fixed via PFC

ok ok. Maybe the PFC is a lot better but I think with minimal mods it may be a bit of overkill, up to the individual.

I really don’t think my car needs to be much faster for the street though. I reckon with the SAFC or DFA I will manage about a 13.8sec quarter. About as quick as a boxster right?

With a bit of boost, stock everything other than exhaust, I made a 13.4 quarter.

But, I had a slightly slipping clutch (only on launch) and a fully prepped track launching me to a 1.9 60ft.

Exactly the reason why I chose the E-Manage over the SAFC or PFC. Much more control than SAFC (16x16 for both AFM and Ignition compared to 12rpm points) and a hell lot cheaper (1/3 the price and about 1/2 price in tuning) than a PFC for a GTiR.

The E-Manage is what I consider just "perfect" for my car with "mild mods": Stock turbo with bit of boost, full turbo back exhaust, Pod with CAI and box, fuel pump, FPR.

Fair enough - I can certainly feel the stock ECU playing games around this RPM, hoping to tune it out with the DFA. Would be good to drive a SAFC tuned car and a powerfc cars with equal mods to see the actual difference. I know people here seem to say they are streets apart...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...